Costanza are now hid in mist. We halt for consultation.
Shall we go on and brave a wetting, or ignominiously
retreat? There are many opinions, but few decided
ones. The drivers declare that it will be a bad
time. One gentleman, with an air of decision,
suggests that it is best to go on, or go back, if
we do not stand here and wait. The deaf lady,
from near Dublin, being appealed to, says that, perhaps,
if it is more prudent, we had better go back if it
is going to rain. It does rain. Waterproofs
are put on, umbrellas spread, backs turned to the
wind; and we look like a group of explorers under adverse
circumstances, “silent on a peak in Darien,”
the donkeys especially downcast and dejected.
Finally, as is usual in life, a, compromise prevails.
We decide to continue for half an hour longer and see
what the weather is. No sooner have we set forward
over the brow of a hill than it grows lighter on the
sea horizon in the southwest, the ruins on the peak
become visible, Capri is in full sunlight. The
clouds lift more and more, and still hanging overhead,
but with no more rain, are like curtains gradually
drawn up, opening to us a glorious vista of sunshine
and promise, an illumined, sparkling, illimitable
sea, and a bright foreground of slopes and picturesque
rocks. Before the half hour is up, there is not
one of the party who does not claim to have been the
person who insisted upon going forward.
We halt for a moment to look at Capri, that enormous,
irregular rock, raising its huge back out of the sea,
its back broken in the middle, with the little village
for a saddle. On the farther summit, above Anacapri,
a precipice of two thousand feet sheer down to the
water on the other side, hangs a light cloud.
The east elevation, whence the playful Tiberius used
to amuse his green old age by casting his prisoners
eight hundred feet down into the sea, has the strong
sunlight on it; and below, the row of tooth-like rocks,
which are the extreme eastern point, shine in a warm
glow. We descend through a village, twisting
about in its crooked streets. The inhabitants,
who do not see strangers every day, make free to stare
at and comment on us, and even laugh at something
that seems very comical in our appearance; which shows
how ridiculous are the costumes of Paris and New York
in some places. Stalwart girls, with only an apology
for clothes, with bare legs, brown faces, and beautiful
eyes, stop in their spinning, holding the distaff
suspended, while they examine us at leisure.
At our left, as we turn from the church and its sunny
piazza, where old women sit and gabble, down the ravine,
is a snug village under the mountain by the shore,
with a great square medieval tower. On the right,
upon rocky points, are remains of round towers, and
temples perhaps.