“Very good; five men.  We will put that down.  What nationalities
    would he prefer?”

    “He is indifferent about nationalities.  He prefers acquaintances,
    but is not prejudiced against strangers.”

    “Very good.  Now, as to Bibles.  How many Bibles would he eat at a
    meal?”

    “He would eat an entire edition.”

Clemens and Osgood had a more important publishing enterprise on hand.  The long-deferred completion of the Mississippi book was to be accomplished; the long-deferred trip down the river was to be taken.  Howells was going abroad, but the charming Osgood was willing to make the excursion, and a young man named Roswell Phelps, of Hartford, was engaged as a stenographer to take the notes.

Clemens made a farewell trip to Boston to see Howells before his departure, and together they went to Concord to call on Emerson; a fortunate thing, for he lived but a few weeks longer.  They went again in the evening, not to see him, but to stand reverently outside and look at his house.  This was in April.  Longfellow had died in March.  The fact that Howells was going away indefinitely, made them reminiscent and sad.

Just what breach Clemens committed during this visit is not remembered now, and it does not matter; but his letter to Howells, after his return to Hartford, makes it pretty clear that it was memorable enough at the time.  Half-way in it he breaks out: 

    But oh, hell, there is no hope for a person that is built like me,
    because there is no cure, no cure.

If I could only know when I have committed a crime:  then I could conceal it, and not go stupidly dribbling it out, circumstance by circumstance, into the ears of a person who will give no sign till the confession is complete; and then the sudden damnation drops on a body like the released pile-driver, and he finds himself in the earth down to his chin.  When he merely supposed he was being entertaining.

Next day he was off with Osgood and the stenographer for St. Louis, where they took the steamer Gold Dust down the river.  He intended to travel under an assumed name, but was promptly recognized, both at the Southern Hotel and on the boat.  In ‘Life on the Mississippi’ he has given us the atmosphere of his trip, with his new impressions of old scenes; also his first interview with the pilot, whom he did not remember, but who easily remembered him.

“I did not write that story in the book quite as it happened,” he reflected once, many years later.  “We went on board at night.  Next morning I was up bright and early and out on deck to see if I could recognize any of the old landmarks.  I could not remember any.  I did not know where we were at all.  It was a new river to me entirely.  I climbed up in the pilot-house and there was a fellow of about forty at the wheel.  I said ‘Good morning.’  He answered pleasantly enough.  His face was entirely strange to me.  Then I sat down on the high seat back of the wheel and looked out at the river and began to ask a few questions, such as a landsman would ask.  He began, in the old way, to fill me up with the old lies, and I enjoyed letting him do it.  Then suddenly he turned round to me and said: