Ah, well, it is refreshment to the jaded, it is water to the thirsty, to look upon men who have so lately breathed the soft air of those Isles of the Blest and had before their eyes the inextinguishable vision of their beauty.  No alien land in all the earth has any deep, strong charm for me but that one; no other land could so longingly and so beseechingly haunt me, sleeping and waking, through half a lifetime, as that one has done.  Other things leave me, but it abides; other things change, but it remains the same.  For me its balmy airs are always blowing, its summer seas flashing in the sun; the pulsing of its surf is in my ear; I can see its garlanded crags, its leaping cascades, its plumy palms drowsing by the shore, its remote summits floating like islands above the cloud-rack; I can feel the spirit of its woody solitudes, I hear the plashing of the brooks; in my nostrils still lives the breath of flowers that perished twenty years ago.

CLXIX

THE COMING OF KIPLING

It was the summer of 1889 that Mark Twain first met Rudyard Kipling.  Kipling was making his tour around the world, a young man wholly unheard of outside of India.  He was writing letters home to an Indian journal, The Pioneer, and he came to Elmira especially to see Mark Twain.  It was night when he arrived, and next morning some one at the hotel directed him to Quarry Farm.  In a hired hack he made his way out through the suburbs, among the buzzing planing-mills and sash factories, and toiled up the long, dusty, roasting east hill, only to find that Mark Twain was at General Langdon’s, in the city he had just left behind.  Mrs. Crane and Susy Clemens were the only ones left at the farm, and they gave him a seat on the veranda and brought him glasses of water or cool milk while he refreshed them with his talk-talk which Mark Twain once said might be likened to footprints, so strong and definite was the impression which it left behind.  He gave them his card, on which the address was Allahabad, and Susy preserved it on that account, because to her India was a fairyland, made up of magic, airy architecture, and dark mysteries.  Clemens once dictated a memory of Kipling’s visit.

    Kipling had written upon the card a compliment to me.  This gave it
    an additional value in Susy’s eyes, since, as a distinction, it was
    the next thing to being recognized by a denizen of the moon.

Kipling came down that afternoon and spent a couple of hours with me, and at the end of that time I had surprised him as much as he had surprised me—­and the honors were easy.  I believed that he knew more than any person I had met before, and I knew that he knew that I knew less than any person he had met before—­though he did not say it, and I was not expecting that he would.  When he was gone Mrs. Langdon wanted to know about my visitor.  I said: 

    “He is a stranger to me, but he is a most remarkable man—­and I am
    the other one.  Between us we cover all knowledge; he knows all that
    can be known, and I know the rest.”