“With recognition of what he is, and an apprehension of what he may become unless he form himself a little more closely upon the model of the author.”

Following the Equator was Mark Twain’s last book of travel, and it did not greatly resemble its predecessors.  It was graver than the Innocents Abroad; it was less inclined to cynicism and burlesque than the Tramp.  It was the thoughtful, contemplative observation and philosophizing of the soul-weary, world-weary pilgrim who has by no means lost interest, but only his eager, first enthusiasm.  It is a gentler book than the Tramp Abroad, and for the most part a pleasanter one.  It is better history and more informing.  Its humor, too, is of a worthier sort, less likely to be forced and overdone.  The holy Hindoo pilgrim’s “itinerary of salvation” is one of the richest of all Mark Twain’s fancies, and is about the best thing in the book.  The revised philosophies of Pudd’nhead Wilson, that begin each chapter, have many of them passed into our daily speech.  That some of Mark Twain’s admirers were disappointed with the new book is very likely, but there were others who could not praise it enough.  James Whitcomb Riley wrote: 

Dear Mr. Clemens,—­For a solid week-night sessions—­I have been glorying in your last book-and if you’ve ever done anything better, stronger, or of wholesomer uplift I can’t recall it.  So here’s my heart and here’s my hand with all the augmented faith and applause of your proudest countryman!  It’s just a hail I’m sending you across the spaces—­not to call you from your blessed work an instant, but simply to join my voice in the universal cheer that is steadfastly going up for you.

As gratefully as delightedly,
                  Your abiding friend,
                            James Whitcomb Riley.

Notwithstanding the belief that the sale of single subscription volumes had about ended, Bliss did well with the new book.  Thirty or forty thousand copies were placed without much delay, and the accumulated royalties paid into Mr. Rogers’s hands.  The burden of debt had become a nightmare.  Clemens wrote: 

Let us begin on those debts.  I cannot bear the weight any longer.  It totally unfits me for work.

This was November 10, 1897.  December 29th he wrote: 

Land, we are glad to see those debts diminishing.  For the first time in my life I am getting more pleasure from paying money out than pulling it in.

To Howells, January 3d, Clemens wrote that they had “turned the corner,” and a month later: 

We’ve lived close to the bone and saved every cent we could, & there’s no undisputed claim now that we can’t cash.  There are only two claims which I dispute & which I mean to look into personally before I pay them.  But they are small.  Both together they amount to only $12,500.  I hope you will never get the like of the load saddled onto you that was saddled onto me 3 years ago.  And yet there is such a solid pleasure in paying the things that I reckon maybe it is worth while to get into that kind of a hobble after all.  Mrs. Clemens gets millions of delight out of it; & the children have never uttered one complaint about the scrimping from the beginning.