In fact, the daily letter had grown monotonous.  He was restless, and the Ajax excursion, which he had been obliged to forego, made him still more dissatisfied.  An idea occurred to him:  the sugar industry of the islands was a matter of great commercial interest to California, while the life and scenery there, picturesquely treated, would appeal to the general reader.  He was on excellent terms with James Anthony and Paul Morrill, of the Sacramento Union; he proposed to them that they send him as their special correspondent to report to their readers, in a series of letters, life, trade, agriculture, and general aspect of the islands.  To his vast delight, they gave him the commission.  He wrote home joyously now: 

I am to remain there a month and ransack the islands, the cataracts and volcanoes completely, and write twenty or thirty letters, for which they pay as much money as I would get if I stayed at home.

He adds that on his return he expects to start straight across the continent by way of the Columbia River, the Pend Oreille Lakes, through Montana and down the Missouri River.  “Only two hundred miles of land travel from San Francisco to New Orleans.”

So it is:  man proposes, while fate, undisturbed, spins serenely on.

He sailed by the Ajax on her next trip, March 7 (1866), beginning his first sea voyage—­a brand-new experience, during which he acquired the names of the sails and parts of the ship, with considerable knowledge of navigation, and of the islands he was to visit—­whatever information passengers and sailors could furnish.  It was a happy, stormy voyage altogether.  In ‘Roughing It’ he has given us some account of it.

It was the 18th of March when he arrived at Honolulu, and his first impression of that tranquil harbor remained with him always.  In fact, his whole visit there became one of those memory-pictures, full of golden sunlight and peace, to be found somewhere in every human past.

The letters of introduction he had brought, and the reputation which had preceded him, guaranteed him welcome and hospitality.  Officials and private citizens were alike ready to show him their pleasant land, and he fairly reveled in its delicious air, its summer warmth, its soft repose.

    Oh, islands there are on the face of the deep
    Where the leaves never fade and the skies never weep,

he quotes in his note-book, and adds: 

    Went with Mr. Damon to his cool, vine-shaded home; no careworn or
    eager, anxious faces in this land of happy contentment.  God, what a
    contrast with California and the Washoe!

And in another place: 

    They live in the S. I.—­no rush, no worry—­merchant goes down to his
    store like a gentleman at nine—­goes home at four and thinks no more
    of business till next day.  D—­n San F. style of wearing out life.