Even when I was in Russia it was not allowable to doubt the infallibility of a ukase, and to do so was, equivalent to high treason.  One day I was crossing a canal at St. Petersburg by a small wooden bridge; Melissino Papanelopulo, and some other Russians were with me.  I began to abuse the wooden bridge, which I characterized as both mean and dangerous.  One of my companions said that on such a day it would be replaced by a fine stone bridge, as the empress had to pass there on some state occasion.  The day named way three weeks off, and I said plainly that it was impossible.  One of the Russians looked askance at me, and said there was no doubt about it, as a ukase had been published ordering that the bridge should be built.  I was going to answer him, but Papanelopulo gave my hand a squeeze, and whispered “Taci!” (hush).

The bridge was not built, but I was not justified, for the empress published another ukase in which she declared it to be her gracious pleasure that the bridge should not be built till the following year.  If anyone would see what a pure despotism is like, let him go to Russia.

The Russian sovereigns use the language of despotism on all occasions.  One day I saw the empress, dressed in man’s clothes, going out for a ride.  Her master of the horse, Prince Repnin, held the bridle of the horse, which suddenly gave him a kick which broke his anklebone.  The empress instantly ordained that the horse should be taken away, and that no one should mount it again under pain of death.  All official positions in Russia have military rank assigned to them, and this sufficiently indicates the nature of the Government.  The coachman-in-chief of her imperial highness holds the rank of colonel, as also does her chief cook.  The castrato Luini was a lieutenant-colonel, and the painter Toretti only a captain, because he had only eight hundred roubles a year, while the coachman had three thousand.  The sentinels at the doors of the palace have their muskets crossed, and ask those who wish to pass through what is their rank.  When I was asked this question, I stopped short; but the quick-witted officer asked me how much I had a year, and on my replying, at a hazard, three thousand roubles, he gave me the rank of general, and I was allowed to pass.  I saw the czarina for a moment; she stopped at the door and took off her gloves to give her hands to be kissed by the officer and the two sentinels.  By such means as this she had won the affection of the corps, commanded by Gregorius Gregorovitch Orloff, on which her safety depended in case of revolution.

I made the following notes when I saw the empress hearing mass in her chapel.  The protopapa, or bishop, received her at the door to give her the holy water, and she kissed his episcopal ring, while the prelate, whose beard was a couple of feet in length, lowered his head to kiss the hands of his temporal sovereign and spiritual head, for in Russia the he or she on the throne is the spiritual as well as temporal head of the Church.