The insurrection of these people had been more formidable than any other that Ibrahim Pasha had to contend with.  He was only able to crush them at last by the assistance of a fellow renowned for his resources in the way of stratagem and cunning, as well as for his knowledge of the country.  This personage was no other than Aboo Goosh ("the father of lies” {39}), who was taken out of prison for the purpose.  The “father of lies” enabled Ibrahim to hem in the insurrection and extinguish it.  He was rewarded with the Governorship of Jerusalem, which he held when I was there.  I recollect, by-the-bye, that he tried one of his stratagems upon me.  I did not go to see him, as I ought in courtesy to have done, during my stay at Jerusalem; but I happened to be the owner of a rather handsome amber tchibouque piece, which the Governor heard of, and by some means contrived to see.  He sent to me, and dressed up a statement that he would give me a price immensely exceeding the sum which I had given for it.  He did not add my tchibouque to the rest of his trophies.

There was a small number of Greek Christians resident in Nablus, and over these the Mussulmans held a high hand, not even permitting them to speak to each other in the open streets; but if the Moslems thus set themselves above the poor Christians of the place, I, or rather my servants, soon took the ascendant over them.  I recollect that just as we were starting from the place, and at a time when a number of people had gathered together in the main street to see our preparations, Mysseri, being provoked at some piece of perverseness on the part of a true believer, coolly thrashed him with his horsewhip before the assembled crowd of fanatics.  I was much annoyed at the time, for I thought that the people would probably rise against us.  They turned rather pale, but stood still.

The day of my arrival at Nablus was a fete—­the new-year’s day of the Mussulmans. {40} Most of the people were amusing themselves in the beautiful lawns and shady groves without the city.  The men (except myself) were all remotely apart from the other sex.  The women in groups were diverting themselves and their children with swings.  They were so handsome, that they could not keep up their yashmaks.  I believe that they had never before looked upon a man in the European dress, and when they now saw in me that strange phenomenon, and saw, too, how they could please the creature by showing him a glimpse of beauty, they seemed to think it was better fun to do this than to go on playing with swings.  It was always, however, with a sort of zoological expression of countenance that they looked on the horrible monster from Europe, and whenever one of them gave me to see for one sweet instant the blushing of her unveiled face, it was with the same kind of air as that with which a young, timid girl will edge her way up to an elephant and tremblingly give him a nut from the tips of her rosy fingers.