I went out sailing for some hours, and when I returned I was horrified to find that two men had been bastinadoed by order of the Governor, with a view to force them to a confession of their theft.  It appeared, however, that there really was good ground for supposing them guilty, since one of the holsters was actually found in their possession.  It was said too (but I could hardly believe it), that whilst one of the men was undergoing the bastinado, his comrade was overheard encouraging him to bear the torment without peaching.  Both men, if they had the secret, were resolute in keeping it, and were sent back to their dungeon.  I of course took care that there should be no repetition of the torture, at least so long as I remained at Suez.

The Governor was a thorough Oriental, and until a comparatively recent period had shared in the old Mahometan feeling of contempt for Europeans.  It happened however, one day that an English gun-brig had appeared off Suez, and sent her boats ashore to take in fresh water.  Now fresh water at Suez is a somewhat scarce and precious commodity:  it is kept in tanks, the chief of which is at some distance from the place.  Under these circumstances the request for fresh water was refused, or at all events, was not complied with.  The captain of the brig was a simple-minded man with a strongish will, and he at once declared that if his casks were not filled in three hours, he would destroy the whole place.  “A great people indeed!” said the Governor; “a wonderful people, the English!” He instantly caused every cask to be filled to the brim from his own tank, and ever afterwards entertained for the English a degree of affection and respect, for which I felt infinitely indebted to the gallant captain.

The day after the abortive attempt to extract a confession from the prisoners, the Governor, the consul, and I sat in council, I know not how long, with a view of prosecuting the search for the stolen goods.  The sitting, considered in the light of a criminal investigation, was characteristic of the East.  The proceedings began as a matter of course by the prosecutor’s smoking a pipe and drinking coffee with the Governor, who was judge, jury, and sheriff.  I got on very well with him (this was not my first interview), and he gave me the pipe from his lips in testimony of his friendship.  I recollect, however, that my prime adviser, thinking me, I suppose, a great deal too shy and retiring in my manner, entreated me to put up my boots and to soil the Governor’s divan, in order to inspire respect and strike terror.  I thought it would be as well for me to retain the right of respecting myself, and that it was not quite necessary for a well-received guest to strike any terror at all.

Our deliberations were assisted by the numerous attendants who lined the three sides of the room not occupied by the divan.  Any one of these who took it into his head to offer a suggestion would stand forward and humble himself before the Governor, and then state his views; every man thus giving counsel was listened to with some attention.