four days we reached Castillo, where there is a decided
fall, passed by a short railway, and above this fall
we were transferred to a larger boat, which carried
us up the rest of the river, and across the beautiful
lake Nicaragua, studded with volcanic islands.
Landing at Virgin Bay, we rode on mules across to
San Juan del Sur, where lay at anchor the propeller
S. S. Lewis (Captain Partridge, I think). Passengers
were carried through the surf by natives to small
boats, and rowed off to the Lewis. The weather
was very hot, and quite a scramble followed for state-rooms,
especially for those on deck. I succeeded in
reaching the purser’s office, got my ticket
for a berth in one of the best state-rooms on deck,
and, just as I was turning from the window, a lady
who was a fellow-passenger from New Orleans, a Mrs.
D-, called to me to secure her and her lady friend
berths on deck, saying that those below were unendurable.
I spoke to the purser, who, at the moment perplexed
by the crowd and clamor, answered: “I must
put their names down for the other two berths of your
state-room; but, as soon as the confusion is over,
I will make some change whereby you shall not suffer.”
As soon as these two women were assigned to a state-room,
they took possession, and I was left out. Their
names were recorded as “Captain Sherman and ladies.”
As soon as things were quieted down I remonstrated
with the purser, who at last gave me a lower berth
in another and larger state-room on deck, with five
others, so that my two ladies had the state-room all
to themselves. At every meal the steward would
come to me, and say, “Captain Sherman, will
you bring your ladies to the table?” and we
had the best seats in the ship.
This continued throughout the voyage, and I assert
that “my ladies” were of the most modest
and best-behaved in the ship; but some time after
we had reached San Francisco one of our fellow-passengers
came to me and inquired if I personally knew Mrs. D—–,
with flaxen tresses, who sang so sweetly for us, and
who had come out under my especial escort. I
replied I did not, more than the chance acquaintance
of the voyage, and what she herself had told me, viz.,
that she expected to meet her husband, who lived about
Mokelumne Hill. He then informed me that she
was a woman of the town. Society in California
was then decidedly mixed. In due season the
steamship Lewis got under weigh. She was a wooden
ship, long and narrow, bark-rigged, and a propeller;
very slow, moving not over eight miles an hour.
We stopped at Acapulco, and, in eighteen days, passed
in sight of Point Pinoa at Monterey, and at the speed
we were traveling expected to reach San Francisco at
4 A. M. the next day. The cabin passengers,
as was usual, bought of the steward some champagne
and cigars, and we had a sort of ovation for the captain,
purser, and surgeon of the ship, who were all very
clever fellows, though they had a slow and poor ship.
Late at night all the passengers went to bed, expecting