and almost every thing needed, we were soon established comfortably.  We found the people of Monterey a mixed set of Americans, native Mexicans, and Indians, about one thousand all told.  They were kind and pleasant, and seemed to have nothing to do, except such as owned ranches in the country for the rearing of horses and cattle.  Horses could be bought at any price from four dollars up to sixteen, but no horse was ever valued above a doubloon or Mexican ounce (sixteen dollars).  Cattle cost eight dollars fifty cents for the best, and this made beef net about two cents a pound, but at that time nobody bought beef by the pound, but by the carcass.

Game of all kinds—­elk, deer, wild geese, and ducks—­was abundant; but coffee, sugar, and small stores, were rare and costly.

There were some half-dozen shops or stores, but their shelves were empty.  The people were very fond of riding, dancing, and of shows of any kind.  The young fellows took great delight in showing off their horsemanship, and would dash along, picking up a half-dollar from the ground, stop their horses in full career and turn about on the space of a bullock’s hide, and their skill with the lasso was certainly wonderful.  At full speed they could cast their lasso about the horns of a bull, or so throw it as to catch any particular foot.  These fellows would work all day on horseback in driving cattle or catching wildhorses for a mere nothing, but all the money offered would not have hired one of them to walk a mile.  The girls were very fond of dancing, and they did dance gracefully and well.  Every Sunday, regularly, we had a baile, or dance, and sometimes interspersed through the week.

I remember very well, soon after our arrival, that we were all invited to witness a play called “Adam and Eve.”  Eve was personated by a pretty young girl known as Dolores Gomez, who, however, was dressed very unlike Eve, for she was covered with a petticoat and spangles.  Adam was personated by her brother—­the same who has since become somewhat famous as the person on whom is founded the McGarrahan claim.  God Almighty was personated, and heaven’s occupants seemed very human.  Yet the play was pretty, interesting, and elicited universal applause.  All the month of February we were by day preparing for our long stay in the country, and at night making the most of the balls and parties of the most primitive kind, picking up a smattering of Spanish, and extending our acquaintance with the people and the costumbrea del pais.  I can well recall that Ord and I, impatient to look inland, got permission and started for the Mission of San Juan Bautista.  Mounted on horses, and with our carbines, we took the road by El Toro, quite a prominent hill, around which passes the road to the south, following the Saunas or Monterey River.  After about twenty miles over a sandy country covered with oak-bushes and scrub, we entered quite a pretty valley in which there was a ranch at the foot of the Toro.  Resting