He soon became weary of his residence.  He found that he was too far from the objects of his curiosity, and too near to the crowds to which he was himself an object of curiosity.  He accordingly removed to Deptford, and was there lodged in the house of John Evelyn, a house which had long been a favourite resort of men of letters, men of taste and men of science.  Here Peter gave himself up to his favourite pursuits.  He navigated a yacht every day up and down the river.  His apartment was crowded with models of three deckers and two deckers, frigates, sloops and fireships.  The only Englishman of rank in whose society he seemed to take much pleasure was the eccentric Caermarthen, whose passion for the sea bore some resemblance to his own, and who was very competent to give an opinion about every part of a ship from the stem to the stern.  Caermarthen, indeed, became so great a favourite that he prevailed on the Czar to consent to the admission of a limited quantity of tobacco into Russia.  There was reason to apprehend that the Russian clergy would cry out against any relaxation of the ancient rule, and would strenuously maintain that the practice of smoking was condemned by that text which declares that man is defiled, not by those things which enter in at the mouth, but by those which proceed out of it.  This apprehension was expressed by a deputation of merchants who were admitted to an audience of the Czar; but they were reassured by the air with which he told them that he knew how to keep priests in order.

He was indeed so free from any bigoted attachment to the religion in which he had been brought up that both Papists and Protestants hoped at different times to make him a proselyte.  Burnet, commissioned by his brethren, and impelled, no doubt, by his own restless curiosity and love of meddling, repaired to Deptford and was honoured with several audiences.  The Czar could not be persuaded to exhibit himself at Saint Paul’s; but he was induced to visit Lambeth palace.  There he saw the ceremony of ordination performed, and expressed warm approbation of the Anglican ritual.  Nothing in England astonished him so much as the Archiepiscopal library.  It was the first good collection of books that he had seen; and he declared that he had never imagined that there were so many printed volumes in the world.

The impression which he made on Burnet was not favourable.  The good bishop could not understand that a mind which seemed to be chiefly occupied with questions about the best place for a capstan and the best way of rigging a jury mast might be capable, not merely of ruling an empire, but of creating a nation.  He complained that he had gone to see a great prince, and had found only an industrious shipwright.  Nor does Evelyn seem to have formed a much more favourable opinion of his august tenant.  It was, indeed, not in the character of tenant that the Czar was likely to gain the good word of civilised men.  With all