May I take off my hat and pay a respectful compliment to Jan Steen, Esq.?  He is a glorious composer.  His humor is as frank as Fielding’s.  Look at his own figure sitting in the window-sill yonder, and roaring with laughter!  What a twinkle in the eyes! what a mouth it is for a song, or a joke, or a noggin!  I think the composition in some of Jan’s pictures amounts to the sublime, and look at them with the same delight and admiration which I have felt before works of the very highest style.  This gallery is admirable—­and the city in which the gallery is, is perhaps even more wonderful and curious to behold than the gallery.

The first landing at Calais (or, I suppose, on any foreign shore)—­the first sight of an Eastern city—­the first view of Venice—­and this of Amsterdam, are among the delightful shocks which I have had as a traveller.  Amsterdam is as good as Venice, with a superadded humor and grotesqueness, which gives the sight-seer the most singular zest and pleasure.  A run through Pekin I could hardly fancy to be more odd, strange, and yet familiar.  This rush, and crowd, and prodigious vitality; this immense swarm of life; these busy waters, crowding barges, swinging drawbridges, piled ancient gables, spacious markets teeming with people; that ever-wonderful Jews’ quarter; that dear old world of painting and the past, yet alive, and throbbing, and palpable—­actual, and yet passing before you swiftly and strangely as a dream!  Of the many journeys of this Roundabout life, that drive through Amsterdam is to be specially and gratefully remembered.  You have never seen the palace of Amsterdam, my dear sir?  Why, there’s a marble hall in that palace that will frighten you as much as any hall in Vathek, or a nightmare.  At one end of that old, cold, glassy, glittering, ghostly, marble hall there stands a throne, on which a white marble king ought to sit with his white legs gleaming down into the white marble below, and his white eyes looking at a great white marble Atlas, who bears on his icy shoulders a blue globe as big as the full moon.  If he were not a genie, and enchanted, and with a strength altogether hyperatlantean, he would drop the moon with a shriek on to the white marble floor, and it would splitter into perdition.  And the palace would rock, and heave, and tumble; and the waters would rise, rise, rise; and the gables sink, sink, sink; and the barges would rise up to the chimneys; and the water-souchee fishes would flap over the Boompjes, where the pigeons and storks used to perch; and the Amster, and the Rotter, and the Saar, and the Op, and all the dams of Holland would burst, and the Zuyder Zee roll over the dykes; and you would wake out of your dream, and find yourself sitting in your arm-chair.

Was it a dream? it seems like one.  Have we been to Holland? have we heard the chimes at midnight at Antwerp?  Were we really away for a week, or have I been sitting up in the room dozing, before this stale old desk?  Here’s the desk; yes.  But, if it has been a dream, how could I have learned to hum that tune out of Dinorah?  Ah, is it that tune, or myself that I am humming?  If it was a dream, how comes this yellow notice des tableaux du musee D’AMSTERDAM avec facsimile des MONOGRAMMES before me, and this signature of the gallant