One cannot take a hundred steps without encountering
some accessory of the palace: the hotel of the
staff of the body-guard, the hotel of the staff of
light-horse-guards, the immense hotel of the body-guard
itself, the hotel of the gendarmes of the guard, the
hotel of the grand wolf-huntsman, of the grand falconer,
of the grand huntsman, of the grand-master, of the
commandant of the canal, of the comptroller-general,
of the superintendent of the buildings, and of the
chancellor; buildings devoted to falconry, and the
vol de cabinet, to boar-hunting, to the grand kennel,
to the dauphin kennel, to the kennel for untrained
dogs, to the court carriages, to shops and storehouses
connected with amusements, to the great stable and
the little stables, to other stables in the Rue de
Limoges, in the Rue Royale, and in the Avenue Saint-Cloud;
to the king’s vegetable garden, comprising twenty-nine
gardens and four terraces; to the great dwelling occupied
by 2,000 persons, with other tenements called “Louises”
in which the king assigned temporary or permanent
lodgings, — words on paper render no physical
impression of the physical enormity. — At the
present day nothing remains of this old Versailles,
mutilated and appropriated to other uses, but fragments,
which, nevertheless, one should go and see. Observe
those three avenues meeting in the great square.
Two hundred and forty feet broad and twenty-four
hundred long, and not too large for the gathering
crowds, the display, the blinding velocity of the
escorts in full speed and of the carriages running
“at death’s door."[5] Observe the two
stables facing the chateau with their railings one
hundred and ninety-two feet long. In 1682 they
cost three millions, that is to say, fifteen millions
to day. They are so ample and beautiful that,
even under Louis XIV himself, they sometimes served
as a cavalcade circus for the princes, sometimes as
a theater, and sometimes as a ball-room. Then
let the eye follow the development of the gigantic
semi-circular square which, from railing to railing
and from court to court, ascends and slowly decreases,
at first between the hotels of the ministers and then
between the two colossal wings, terminating in the
ostentatious frame of the marble court where pilasters,
statues, pediments, and multiplied and accumulated
ornaments, story above story, carry the majestic regularity
of their lines and the overcharged mass of their decoration
up to the sky. According to a bound manuscript
bearing the arms of Mansart, the palace cost 153 million,
that is to say, about 750 million francs of to day;[6]
when a king aims at imposing display this is the cost
of his lodging. Now turn the eye to the other
side, towards the gardens, and this self-display becomes
the more impressive. The parterres and the park
are, again, a drawing room in the open air. There
is nothing natural of nature here; she is put in order
and rectified wholly with a view to society; this
is no place to be alone and to relax oneself, but