one can guess pretty nearly at sight whether a range is of the old crystalline rocks or not.  The Borassus, though not an oil-bearing palm, is a useful tree.  The fibrous pulp round the large nuts is of a sweet fruity taste, and is eaten by men and elephants.  The natives bury the nuts until the kernels begin to sprout; when dug up and broken, the inside resembles coarse potatoes, and is prized in times of scarcity as nutritious food.  During several months of the year, palm-wine, or sura, is obtained in large quantities; when fresh, it is a pleasant drink, somewhat like champagne, and not at all intoxicating; though, after standing a few hours, it becomes highly so.  Sticks, a foot long, are driven into notches in the hard outside of the tree—­the inside being soft or hollow—­to serve as a ladder; the top of the fruit-shoot is cut off, and the sap, pouring out at the fresh wound, is caught in an earthen pot, which is hung at the point.  A thin slice is taken off the end, to open the pores, and make the juice flow every time the owner ascends to empty the pot.  Temporary huts are erected in the forest, and men and boys remain by their respective trees day and night; the nuts, fish, and wine, being their sole food.  The Portuguese use the palm-wine as yeast, and it makes bread so light, that it melts in the mouth like froth.

Beyond the marsh the country is higher, and has a much larger population.  We passed a long line of temporary huts, on a plain on the right bank, with crowds of men and women hard at work making salt.  They obtain it by mixing the earth, which is here highly saline, with water, in a pot with a small hole in it, and then evaporating the liquid, which runs through, in the sun.  From the number of women we saw carrying it off in bags, we concluded that vast quantities must be made at these works.  It is worth observing that on soils like this, containing salt, the cotton is of larger and finer staple than elsewhere.  We saw large tracts of this rich brackish soil both in the Shire and Zambesi valleys, and hence, probably, sea-island cotton would do well; a single plant of it, reared by Major Sicard, flourished and produced the long staple and peculiar tinge of this celebrated variety, though planted only in the street at Tette; and there also a salt efflorescence appears, probably from decomposition of the rock, off which the people scrape it for use.

The large village of the chief, Mankokwe, occupies a site on the right bank; he owns a number of fertile islands, and is said to be the Rundo, or paramount chief, of a large district.  Being of an unhappy suspicious disposition, he would not see us; so we thought it best to move on, rather than spend time in seeking his favour.