We had now thunder every afternoon; but while occasional showers seemed to fall at different parts, none fell on us.  The air was deliciously clear, and revealed all the landscape covered everywhere with forest, and bounded by beautiful mountains.  On the 31st October we reached the Mukuru-Madse, after having travelled 660 geographical miles, or 760 English miles in a straight line.  This was accomplished in fifty-five travelling days, twelve miles per diem on an average.  If the numerous bendings and windings, and ups and downs of the paths could have been measured too, the distance would have been found at least fifteen miles a day.

The night we slept at the Mukuru-Madse it thundered heavily, but, as this had been the case every afternoon, and no rain had followed, we erected no shelter, but during this night a pouring rain came on.  When very tired a man feels determined to sleep in spite of everything, and the sound of dropping water is said to be conducive to slumber, but that does not refer to an African storm.  If, when half asleep in spite of a heavy shower on the back of the head, he unconsciously turns on his side, the drops from the branches make such capital shots into his ear, that the brain rings again.

We were off next morning, the 1st of November, as soon as the day dawned.  In walking about seven miles to the ship, our clothes were thoroughly dried by the hot sun, and an attack of fever followed.  We relate this little incident to point out the almost certain consequence of getting wet in this climate, and allowing the clothes to dry on the person.  Even if we walk in the mornings when the dew is on the grass, and only get our feet and legs wet, a very uneasy feeling and partial fever with pains in the limbs ensue, and continue till the march onwards bathes them in perspiration.  Had Bishop Mackenzie been aware of this, which, before experience alone had taught us, entailed many a severe lesson, we know no earthly reason why his valuable life might not have been spared.  The difference between getting the clothes soaked in England and in Africa is this:  in the cold climate the patient is compelled, or, at any rate, warned, by discomfort to resort at once to a change of raiment; while in Africa it is cooling and rather pleasant to allow the clothes to dry on the person.  A Missionary in proportion as he possesses an athletic frame, hardened by manly exercises, in addition to his other qualifications, will excel him who is not favoured with such bodily endowments; but in a hot climate efficiency mainly depends on husbanding the resources.  He must never forget that, in the tropics, he is an exotic plant.

CHAPTER XV.

Confidence of natives—­Bishop Tozer—­Withdrawal of the Mission party—­The English leave—­Hazardous voyage to Mosambique—­Dr. Livingstone’s voyage to Bombay—­Return to England.

We were delighted and thankful to find all those left at the ship in good health, and that from the employments in which they had been occupied they had suffered less from fever than usual during our absence.  My companion, Thomas Ward, the steward, after having performed his part in the march right bravely, rejoined his comrades stronger than he had ever been before.