The distance from Malden to Hampton is about five hundred miles.  I had not been away from home many hours before it began to grow painfully evident that I did not have enough money to pay my fair to Hampton.  One experience I shall long remember.  I had been travelling over the mountains most of the afternoon in an old-fashion stage-coach, when, late in the evening, the coach stopped for the night at a common, unpainted house called a hotel.  All the other passengers except myself were whites.  In my ignorance I supposed that the little hotel existed for the purpose of accommodating the passengers who travelled on the stage-coach.  The difference that the colour of one’s skin would make I had not thought anything about.  After all the other passengers had been shown rooms and were getting ready for supper, I shyly presented myself before the man at the desk.  It is true I had practically no money in my pocket with which to pay for bed or food, but I had hoped in some way to beg my way into the good graces of the landlord, for at that season in the mountains of Virginia the weather was cold, and I wanted to get indoors for the night.  Without asking as to whether I had any money, the man at the desk firmly refused to even consider the matter of providing me with food or lodging.  This was my first experience in finding out what the colour of my skin meant.  In some way I managed to keep warm by walking about, and so got through the night.  My whole soul was so bent upon reaching Hampton that I did not have time to cherish any bitterness toward the hotel-keeper.

By walking, begging rides both in wagons and in the cars, in some way, after a number of days, I reached the city of Richmond, Virginia, about eighty-two miles from Hampton.  When I reached there, tired, hungry, and dirty, it was late in the night.  I had never been in a large city, and this rather added to my misery.  When I reached Richmond, I was completely out of money.  I had not a single acquaintance in the place, and, being unused to city ways, I did not know where to go.  I applied at several places for lodging, but they all wanted money, and that was what I did not have.  Knowing nothing else better to do, I walked the streets.  In doing this I passed by many a food-stands where fried chicken and half-moon apple pies were piled high and made to present a most tempting appearance.  At that time it seemed to me that I would have promised all that I expected to possess in the future to have gotten hold of one of those chicken legs or one of those pies.  But I could not get either of these, nor anything else to eat.