of the upper basin contracts into a valley of about
2,000 feet deep, rent at its bottom into a cleft a
thousand feet deeper still, down which dashes a river,
buried between these stupendous walls of rock.
All above the chasm is terraced as far as the eye
can reach with indefatigable industry. Tiny streamlets
bound and leap from terrace to terrace, fertilising
them as they rush to join the torrent in the abyss.
Some of the waterfalls are of great height and of
considerable volume. From one spot may be counted
no less than seven of these cascades, now dashing in
white spray over a cliff, now lost under the shade
of trees, soon to reappear over the next shelving
rock."[138] Or, to quote from another writer,[139]—“The
descent from the summit is gradual, but is everywhere
broken by precipices and towering rocks, which time
and the elements have chiselled into strange fantastic
shapes. Ravines of singular wildness and grandeur
furrow the whole mountain-side, looking in many places
like huge rents. Here and there, too, bold promontories
shoot out, and dip perpendicularly into the bosom
of the Mediterranean. The ragged limestone banks
are scantily clothed with the evergreen oak, and the
sandstone with pines; while every available spot is
carefully cultivated. The cultivation is wonderful,
and shows what all Syria might be of under a good
government. Miniature fields of grain are often
seen where one would suppose that the eagles alone,
which hover round them, could have planted the seed.
Fig-trees cling to the naked rock; vines are trained
along narrow ledges; long ranges of mulberries on terraces
like steps of stairs cover the more gentle declivities;
and dense groves of olives fill up the bottoms of
the glens. Hundreds of villages are seen, here
built amid labyrinths of rock, there clinging like
swallows’ nests to the sides of cliffs, while
convents, no less numerous, are perched on the top
of every peak. When viewed from the sea on a morning
in early spring, Lebanon presents a picture which once
seen is never forgotten; but deeper still is the impression
left on the mind, when one looks down over its terraced
slopes clothed in their gorgeous foliage, and through
the vistas of its magnificent glens, on the broad and
bright Mediterranean.”
The eastern flank of the mountain falls very far short
of the western both in area and in beauty. It
is a comparatively narrow region, and presents none
of the striking features of gorge, ravine, deep dell,
and dashing stream which diversify the side that looks
westward. The steep slopes are generally bare,
the lower portion only being scantily clothed with
deciduous oak, for the most part stunted, and with
low scrub of juniper and barberry.[140] Towards the
north there is an outer barrier, parallel with the
main chain, on which follows a tolerably flat and
rather bare plain, well watered, and with soft turf
in many parts, which gently slopes to the foot of
the main ascent, a wall of rock generally half covered