yellow-washed hovels, or call them palaces, where all
that is dreary in domestic life seems magnified and
multiplied, and weary of climbing those staircases,
which ascend from a ground-floor of cook shops, cobblers’
stalls, stables, and regiments of cavalry, to a middle
region of princes, cardinals, and ambassadors, and
an upper tier of artists, just beneath the unattainable
sky,—left her, worn out with shivering
at the cheerless and smoky fireside by day, and feasting
with our own substance the ravenous little populace
of a Roman bed at night,—left her, sick
at heart of Italian trickery, which has uprooted whatever
faith in man’s integrity had endured till now,
and sick at stomach of sour bread, sour wine, rancid
butter, and bad cookery, needlessly bestowed on evil
meats,—left her, disgusted with the pretence
of holiness and the reality of nastiness, each equally
omnipresent,—left her, half lifeless from
the languid atmosphere, the vital principle of which
has been used up long ago, or corrupted by myriads
of slaughters,—left her, crushed down in
spirit with the desolation of her ruin, and the hopelessness
of her future,—left her, in short, hating
her with all our might, and adding our individual curse
to the infinite anathema which her old crimes have
unmistakably brought down,—when we have
left Rome in such mood as this, we are astonished by
the discovery, by and by, that our heart-strings have
mysteriously attached themselves to the Eternal City,
and are drawing us thitherward again, as if it were
more familiar, more intimately our home, than even
the spot where we were born.
It is with a kindred sentiment, that we now follow
the course of our story back through the Flaminian
Gate, and, treading our way to the Via Portoghese,
climb the staircase to the upper chamber of the tower
where we last saw Hilda.
Hilda all along intended to pass the summer in Rome;
for she had laid out many high and delightful tasks,
which she could the better complete while her favorite
haunts were deserted by the multitude that thronged
them throughout the winter and early spring. Nor
did she dread the summer atmosphere, although generally
held to be so pestilential. She had already made
trial of it, two years before, and found no worse
effect than a kind of dreamy languor, which was dissipated
by the first cool breezes that came with autumn.
The thickly populated centre of the city, indeed,
is never affected by the feverish influence that lies
in wait in the Campagna, like a besieging foe, and
nightly haunts those beautiful lawns and woodlands,
around the suburban villas, just at the season when
they most resemble Paradise. What the flaming
sword was to the first Eden, such is the malaria to
these sweet gardens and grove. We may wander
through them, of an afternoon, it is true, but they
cannot be made a home and a reality, and to sleep
among them is death. They are but illusions,
therefore, like the show of gleaming waters and shadowy
foliage in a desert.