The usual approach to Arnheim was by the river.  The visiter left the city in the early morning.  During the forenoon he passed between shores of a tranquil and domestic beauty, on which grazed innumerable sheep, their white fleeces spotting the vivid green of rolling meadows.  By degrees the idea of cultivation subsided into that of merely pastoral care.  This slowly became merged in a sense of retirement —­ this again in a consciousness of solitude.  As the evening approached, the channel grew more narrow, the banks more and more precipitous; and these latter were clothed in rich, more profuse, and more sombre foliage.  The water increased in transparency.  The stream took a thousand turns, so that at no moment could its gleaming surface be seen for a greater distance than a furlong.  At every instant the vessel seemed imprisoned within an enchanted circle, having insuperable and impenetrable walls of foliage, a roof of ultramarine satin, and no floor —­ the keel balancing itself with admirable nicety on that of a phantom bark which, by some accident having been turned upside down, floated in constant company with the substantial one, for the purpose of sustaining it.  The channel now became a gorge —­ although the term is somewhat inapplicable, and I employ it merely because the language has no word which better represents the most striking —­ not the most distinctive-feature of the scene.  The character of gorge was maintained only in the height and parallelism of the shores; it was lost altogether in their other traits.  The walls of the ravine (through which the clear water still tranquilly flowed) arose to an elevation of a hundred and occasionally of a hundred and fifty feet, and inclined so much toward each other as, in a great measure, to shut out the light of day; while the long plume-like moss which depended densely from the intertwining shrubberies overhead, gave the whole chasm an air of funereal gloom.  The windings became more frequent and intricate, and seemed often as if returning in upon themselves, so that the voyager had long lost all idea of direction.  He was, moreover, enwrapt in an exquisite sense of the strange.  The thought of nature still remained, but her character seemed to have undergone modification, there was a weird symmetry, a thrilling uniformity, a wizard propriety in these her works.  Not a dead branch —­ not a withered leaf —­ not a stray pebble —­ not a patch of the brown earth was anywhere visible.  The crystal water welled up against the clean granite, or the unblemished moss, with a sharpness of outline that delighted while it bewildered the eye.