PART I

At the little town of Vevey, in Switzerland, there is a particularly comfortable hotel.  There are, indeed, many hotels, for the entertainment of tourists is the business of the place, which, as many travelers will remember, is seated upon the edge of a remarkably blue lake—­a lake that it behooves every tourist to visit.  The shore of the lake presents an unbroken array of establishments of this order, of every category, from the “grand hotel” of the newest fashion, with a chalk-white front, a hundred balconies, and a dozen flags flying from its roof, to the little Swiss pension of an elder day, with its name inscribed in German-looking lettering upon a pink or yellow wall and an awkward summerhouse in the angle of the garden.  One of the hotels at Vevey, however, is famous, even classical, being distinguished from many of its upstart neighbors by an air both of luxury and of maturity.  In this region, in the month of June, American travelers are extremely numerous; it may be said, indeed, that Vevey assumes at this period some of the characteristics of an American watering place.  There are sights and sounds which evoke a vision, an echo, of Newport and Saratoga.  There is a flitting hither and thither of “stylish” young girls, a rustling of muslin flounces, a rattle of dance music in the morning hours, a sound of high-pitched voices at all times.  You receive an impression of these things at the excellent inn of the “Trois Couronnes” and are transported in fancy to the Ocean House or to Congress Hall.  But at the “Trois Couronnes,” it must be added, there are other features that are much at variance with these suggestions:  neat German waiters, who look like secretaries of legation; Russian princesses sitting in the garden; little Polish boys walking about held by the hand, with their governors; a view of the sunny crest of the Dent du Midi and the picturesque towers of the Castle of Chillon.

I hardly know whether it was the analogies or the differences that were uppermost in the mind of a young American, who, two or three years ago, sat in the garden of the “Trois Couronnes,” looking about him, rather idly, at some of the graceful objects I have mentioned.  It was a beautiful summer morning, and in whatever fashion the young American looked at things, they must have seemed to him charming.  He had come from Geneva the day before by the little steamer, to see his aunt, who was staying at the hotel—­Geneva having been for a long time his place of residence.  But his aunt had a headache—­ his aunt had almost always a headache—­and now she was shut up in her room, smelling camphor, so that he was at liberty to wander about.  He was some seven-and-twenty years of age; when his friends spoke of him, they usually said that he was at Geneva “studying.”  When his enemies spoke of him, they said—­but, after all, he had no enemies; he was an extremely amiable fellow, and universally liked.  What I