Almost everywhere in Mongolia I met either single pairs or whole flocks of the greyish-yellow prairie partridges, salga or “partridge swallow,” so called because they have long sharp tails resembling those of swallows and because their flight also is a close copy of that of the swallow.  These birds are very tame or fearless, allowing men to come within ten or fifteen paces of them; but, when they do break, they go high and fly long distances without lighting, whistling all the time quite like swallows.  Their general markings are light grey and yellow, though the males have pretty chocolate spots on the backs and wings, while their legs and feet are heavily feathered.

My opportunity to make these observations came from traveling through unfrequented regions by the urga, which, however, had its counterbalancing disadvantages.  The Mongols carried me directly and swiftly toward my destination, receiving with great satisfaction the presents of Chinese dollars which I gave them.  But after having made about five thousand miles on my Cossack saddle that now lay behind me on the cart all covered with dust like common merchandise, I rebelled against being wracked and torn by the rough riding of the cart as it was swung heedlessly over stones, hillocks and ditches by the wild horses with their equally wild riders, bounding and cracking and holding together only through its tenacity of purpose in demonstrating the cosiness and attractiveness of a good Mongol equipage!  All my bones began to ache.  Finally I groaned at every lunge and at last I suffered a very sharp attack of ischias or sciatica in my wounded leg.  At night I could neither sleep, lie down nor sit with comfort and spent the whole night pacing up and down the plain, listening to the loud snoring of the inhabitants of the yurta.  At times I had to fight the two huge black dogs which attacked me.  The following day I could endure the wracking only until noon and was then forced to give up and lie down.  The pain was unbearable.  I could not move my leg nor my back and finally fell into a high fever.  We were forced to stop and rest.  I swallowed all my stock of aspirin and quinine but without relief.  Before me was a sleepless night about which I could not think without weakening fear.  We had stopped in the yurta for guests by the side of a small monastery.  My Mongols invited the Lama doctor to visit me, who gave me two very bitter powders and assured me I should be able to continue in the morning.  I soon felt a stimulated palpitation of the heart, after which the pain became even sharper.  Again I spent the night without any sleep but when the sun arose the pain ceased instantly and, after an hour, I ordered them to saddle me a horse, as I was afraid to continue further in the cart.