Journey to the Western Islands of Scotland eBook

This eBook from the Gutenberg Project consists of approximately 206 pages of information about Journey to the Western Islands of Scotland.

Journey to the Western Islands of Scotland eBook

This eBook from the Gutenberg Project consists of approximately 206 pages of information about Journey to the Western Islands of Scotland.

The episcopal church consists of two parts, separated by the belfry, and built at different times.  The original church had, like others, the altar at one end, and tower at the other:  but as it grew too small, another building of equal dimension was added, and the tower then was necessarily in the middle.

That these edifices are of different ages seems evident.  The arch of the first church is Roman, being part of a circle; that of the additional building is pointed, and therefore Gothick, or Saracenical; the tower is firm, and wants only to be floored and covered.

Of the chambers or cells belonging to the monks, there are some walls remaining, but nothing approaching to a complete apartment.

The bottom of the church is so incumbered with mud and rubbish, that we could make no discoveries of curious inscriptions, and what there are have been already published.  The place is said to be known where the black stones lie concealed, on which the old Highland Chiefs, when they made contracts and alliances, used to take the oath, which was considered as more sacred than any other obligation, and which could not be violated without the blackest infamy.  In those days of violence and rapine, it was of great importance to impress upon savage minds the sanctity of an oath, by some particular and extraordinary circumstances.  They would not have recourse to the black stones, upon small or common occasions, and when they had established their faith by this tremendous sanction, inconstancy and treachery were no longer feared.

The chapel of the nunnery is now used by the inhabitants as a kind of general cow-house, and the bottom is consequently too miry for examination.  Some of the stones which covered the later abbesses have inscriptions, which might yet be read, if the chapel were cleansed.  The roof of this, as of all the other buildings, is totally destroyed, not only because timber quickly decays when it is neglected, but because in an island utterly destitute of wood, it was wanted for use, and was consequently the first plunder of needy rapacity.

The chancel of the nuns’ chapel is covered with an arch of stone, to which time has done no injury; and a small apartment communicating with the choir, on the north side, like the chapter-house in cathedrals, roofed with stone in the same manner, is likewise entire.

In one of the churches was a marble altar, which the superstition of the inhabitants has destroyed.  Their opinion was, that a fragment of this stone was a defence against shipwrecks, fire, and miscarriages.  In one corner of the church the bason for holy water is yet unbroken.

The cemetery of the nunnery was, till very lately, regarded with such reverence, that only women were buried in it.  These reliques of veneration always produce some mournful pleasure.  I could have forgiven a great injury more easily than the violation of this imaginary sanctity.

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Journey to the Western Islands of Scotland from Project Gutenberg. Public domain.