From these remains of ancient sanctity, which are every where to be found, it has been conjectured, that, for the last two centuries, the inhabitants of the Islands have decreased in number.  This argument, which supposes that the churches have been suffered to fall, only because they were no longer necessary, would have some force, if the houses of worship still remaining were sufficient for the people.  But since they have now no churches at all, these venerable fragments do not prove the people of former times to have been more numerous, but to have been more devout.  If the inhabitants were doubled with their present principles, it appears not that any provision for publick worship would be made.  Where the religion of a country enforces consecrated buildings, the number of those buildings may be supposed to afford some indication, however uncertain, of the populousness of the place; but where by a change of manners a nation is contented to live without them, their decay implies no diminution of inhabitants.

Some of these dilapidations are said to be found in islands now uninhabited; but I doubt whether we can thence infer that they were ever peopled.  The religion of the middle age, is well known to have placed too much hope in lonely austerities.  Voluntary solitude was the great act of propitiation, by which crimes were effaced, and conscience was appeased; it is therefore not unlikely, that oratories were often built in places where retirement was sure to have no disturbance.

Raasay has little that can detain a traveller, except the Laird and his family; but their power wants no auxiliaries.  Such a seat of hospitality, amidst the winds and waters, fills the imagination with a delightful contrariety of images.  Without is the rough ocean and the rocky land, the beating billows and the howling storm:  within is plenty and elegance, beauty and gaiety, the song and the dance.  In Raasay, if I could have found an Ulysses, I had fancied a Phoeacia.

DUNVEGAN

At Raasay, by good fortune, Macleod, so the chief of the clan is called, was paying a visit, and by him we were invited to his seat at Dunvegan.  Raasay has a stout boat, built in Norway, in which, with six oars, he conveyed us back to Sky.  We landed at Port Re, so called, because James the Fifth of Scotland, who had curiosity to visit the Islands, came into it.  The port is made by an inlet of the sea, deep and narrow, where a ship lay waiting to dispeople Sky, by carrying the natives away to America.

In coasting Sky, we passed by the cavern in which it was the custom, as Martin relates, to catch birds in the night, by making a fire at the entrance.  This practice is disused; for the birds, as is known often to happen, have changed their haunts.

Here we dined at a publick house, I believe the only inn of the island, and having mounted our horses, travelled in the manner already described, till we came to Kingsborough, a place distinguished by that name, because the King lodged here when he landed at Port Re.  We were entertained with the usual hospitality by Mr. Macdonald and his lady, Flora Macdonald, a name that will be mentioned in history, and if courage and fidelity be virtues, mentioned with honour.  She is a woman of middle stature, soft features, gentle manners, and elegant presence.