I had no time to lose, for it was now between ten and eleven in the morning.  Fortunately I was well equipped, for on leaving the camp and the horses at the lower end of the valley I had provided myself (according to my custom) with everything that I was likely to want for four or five days.  Chowbok had carried half, but had dropped his whole swag—­I suppose, at the moment of his taking flight—­for I came upon it when I ran after him.  I had, therefore, his provisions as well as my own.  Accordingly, I took as many biscuits as I thought I could carry, and also some tobacco, tea, and a few matches.  I rolled all these things (together with a flask nearly full of brandy, which I had kept in my pocket for fear lest Chowbok should get hold of it) inside my blankets, and strapped them very tightly, making the whole into a long roll of some seven feet in length and six inches in diameter.  Then I tied the two ends together, and put the whole round my neck and over one shoulder.  This is the easiest way of carrying a heavy swag, for one can rest one’s self by shifting the burden from one shoulder to the other.  I strapped my pannikin and a small axe about my waist, and thus equipped began to ascend the valley, angry at having been misled by Chowbok, but determined not to return till I was compelled to do so.

I crossed and recrossed the stream several times without difficulty, for there were many good fords.  At one o’clock I was at the foot of the saddle; for four hours I mounted, the last two on the snow, where the going was easier; by five, I was within ten minutes of the top, in a state of excitement greater, I think, than I had ever known before.  Ten minutes more, and the cold air from the other side came rushing upon me.

A glance.  I was not on the main range.

Another glance.  There was an awful river, muddy and horribly angry, roaring over an immense river-bed, thousands of feet below me.

It went round to the westward, and I could see no farther up the valley, save that there were enormous glaciers which must extend round the source of the river, and from which it must spring.

Another glance, and then I remained motionless.

There was an easy pass in the mountains directly opposite to me, through which I caught a glimpse of an immeasurable extent of blue and distant plains.

Easy?  Yes, perfectly easy; grassed nearly to the summit, which was, as it were, an open path between two glaciers, from which an inconsiderable stream came tumbling down over rough but very possible hillsides, till it got down to the level of the great river, and formed a flat where there was grass and a small bush of stunted timber.