“And do you suppose that her husband rewards her for her devotion?  Pooh, my lord never gives her a smile!  And all their cooking is done at the baker’s; for not only does the wretched man never earn a sou; he spends all his wife can make on instruments which he carves, and lengthens, and shortens, and sets up and takes to pieces again till they produce sounds that will scare a cat; then he is happy.  And yet you will find him the mildest, the gentlest of men.  And, he is not idle; he is always at it.  What is to be said?  He is crazy and does not know his business.  I have seen him, monsieur, filing and forging his instruments and eating black bread with an appetite that I envied him —­I, who have the best table in Paris.

“Yes, Excellenza, in a quarter of an hour you shall know the man I am.  I have introduced certain refinements into Italian cookery that will amaze you!  Excellenza, I am a Neapolitan—­that is to say, a born cook.  But of what use is instinct without knowledge?  Knowledge!  I have spent thirty years in acquiring it, and you see where it has left me.  My history is that of every man of talent.  My attempts, my experiments, have ruined three restaurants in succession at Naples, Parma, and Rome.  To this day, when I am reduced to make a trade of my art, I more often than not give way to my ruling passion.  I give these poor refugees some of my choicest dishes.  I ruin myself!  Folly! you will say?  I know it; but how can I help it?  Genius carries me away, and I cannot resist concocting a dish which smiles on my fancy.

“And they always know it, the rascals!  They know, I can promise you, whether I or my wife has stood over the fire.  And what is the consequence?  Of sixty-odd customers whom I used to see at my table every day when I first started in this wretched place, I now see twenty on an average, and give them credit for the most part.  The Piedmontese, the Savoyards, have deserted, but the connoisseurs, the true Italians, remain.  And there is no sacrifice that I would not make for them.  I often give them a dinner for five and twenty sous which has cost me double.”

Signore Giardini’s speech had such a full flavor of Neapolitan cunning that the Count was delighted, and could have fancied himself at Gerolamo’s.

“Since that is the case, my good friend,” said he familiarly to the cook, “and since chance and your confidence have let me into the secret of your daily sacrifices, allow me to pay double.”

As he spoke Andrea spun a forty-franc piece on the stove, out of which Giardini solemnly gave him two francs and fifty centimes in change, not without a certain ceremonious mystery that amused him hugely.

“In a few minutes now,” the man added, “you will see your donnina.  I will seat you next the husband, and if you wish to stand in his good graces, talk about music.  I have invited every one for the evening, poor things.  Being New Year’s Day, I am treating the company to a dish in which I believe I have surpassed myself.”