ladies did not sometimes go up.  “Yes; young women do, at times,” he said.  After that my wife resolved that she would see the top of the Owl’s Head, or die in the attempt, and so we started.  They never think of sending a guide with one in these places, whereas in Europe a traveler is not allowed to go a step without one.  When I asked for one to show us the way up Mount Washington, I was told that there were no idle boys about that place.  The path was indicated to us, and off we started with high hopes.

I have been up many mountains, and have climbed some that were perhaps somewhat dangerous in their ascent.  In climbing the Owl’s Head there is no danger.  One is closed in by thick trees the whole way.  But I doubt if I ever went up a steeper ascent.  It was very hard work, but we were not beaten.  We reached the top, and there sitting down, thoroughly enjoyed our victory.  It was then half-past five o’clock, and the sun was not yet absolutely sinking.  It did not seem to give us any warning that we should especially require its aid, and, as the prospect below us was very lovely, we remained there for a quarter of an hour.  The ascent of the Owl’s Head is certainly a thing to do, and I still think, in spite of our following misfortune, that it is a thing to do late in the afternoon.  The view down upon the lakes and the forests around, and on the wooded hills below, is wonderfully lovely.  I never was on a mountain which gave me a more perfect command of all the country round.  But as we arose to descend we saw a little cloud coming toward us from over Newport.

The little cloud came on with speed, and we had hardly freed ourselves from the rocks of the summit before we were surrounded by rain.  As the rain became thicker, we were surrounded by darkness also, or, if not by darkness, by so dim a light that it became a task to find our path.  I still thought that the daylight had not gone, and that as we descended, and so escaped from the cloud, we should find light enough to guide us.  But it was not so.  The rain soon became a matter of indifference, and so also did the mud and briers beneath our feet.  Even the steepness of the way was almost forgotten as we endeavored to thread our path through the forest before it should become impossible to discern the track.  A dog had followed us up, and though the beast would not stay with us so as to be our guide, he returned ever and anon, and made us aware of his presence by dashing by us.  I may confess now that I became much frightened.  We were wet through, and a night out in the forest would have been unpleasant to us.  At last I did utterly lose the track, it had become quite dark, so dark that we could hardly see each other.  We had succeeded in getting down the steepest and worst part of the mountain, but we were still among dense forest trees, and up to our knees in mud.  But the people at the Mountain house were Christians, and men with lanterns were sent hallooing after us through the dark night.  When we were thus found we were not many yards from the path, but unfortunately on the wrong side of a stream.  Through that we waded, and then made our way in safety to the inn.  In spite of which misadventure I advise all travelers in Lower Canada to go up the Owl’s Head.