There were several dishes quaintly decorated, and which had evidently something traditionary in their embellishments; but about which, as I did not like to appear over curious, I asked no questions.  I could not, however, but notice a pie, magnificently decorated with peacocks’ feathers, in imitation of the tail of that bird, which overshadowed a considerable tract of the table.  This, the Squire confessed, with some little hesitation, was a pheasant-pie, though a peacock-pie was certainly the most authentical; but there had been such a mortality among the peacocks this season, that he could not prevail upon himself to have one killed.*

     [6] See Note F.

It would be tedious, perhaps, to my wiser readers, who may not have that foolish fondness for odd and obsolete things to which I am a little given, were I to mention the other makeshifts of this worthy old humourist, by which he was endeavouring to follow up, though at humble distance, the quaint customs of antiquity.  I was pleased, however, to see the respect shown to his whims by his children and relatives; who, indeed, entered readily into the full spirit of them, and seemed all well versed in their parts; having doubtless been present at many a rehearsal.  I was amused, too, at the air of profound gravity with which the butler and other servants executed the duties assigned them, however eccentric.  They had an old-fashioned look; having, for the most part, been brought up in the household, and grown into keeping with the antiquated mansion, and the humours of its lord; and most probably looked upon all his whimsical regulations as the established laws of honourable housekeeping.  When the cloth was removed, the butler brought in a huge silver vessel of rare and curious workmanship, which he placed before the Squire.  Its appearance was hailed with acclamation; being the Wassail Bowl, so renowned in Christmas festivity.  The contents had been prepared by the Squire himself; for it was a beverage in the skilful mixture of which he particularly prided himself, alleging that it was too abstruse and complex for the comprehension of an ordinary servant.  It was a potation, indeed, that might well make the heart of a toper leap within him; being composed of the richest and raciest wines, highly spiced and sweetened, with roasted apples bobbing about the surface.*

     [7] See Note G.

The old gentleman’s whole countenance beamed with a serene look of indwelling delight, as he stirred this mighty bowl.  Having raised it to his lips, with a hearty wish of a merry Christmas to all present, he sent it brimming, around the board, for every one to follow his example, according to the primitive style; pronouncing it “the ancient fountain of good feeling, where all hearts met together."*

     [8] See Note H.

There was much laughing and rallying, as the honest emblem of Christmas joviality circulated, and was kissed rather coyly by the ladies.  When it reached Master Simon he raised it in both hands, and with the air of a boon companion struck up an old Wassail chanson: