the pope; it therefore takes precedence of all others,
and is called Omnium urbis el orbis ecclesiarum
mater et caput (the head and mother of all churches
of the city and the world). In it is celebrated
the coronation of the popes. It contains several
pillars of granite, verde antico, and gilt
bronze; the twelve apostles by Rusconi and Legros;
and the beautiful chapel of Corsini, which is unequalled
in its proportions, built by Alexander Galilei.
The altar-piece is a mosaic from a painting by Guido,
and the beautiful porphyry sarcophagus, which is under
the statue of Clement XII., was found in the Pantheon,
and is supposed to have contained the ashes of M.
Agrippa. The nave of the church of Santa Maria
Maggiore is supported by forty Ionic pillars of Grecian
marble, which were taken from a temple of Juno Lucina:
the ceiling was gilded with the first gold brought
from Peru. We are here struck with admiration
at the mosaics; the high altar, consisting of an antique
porphyry sarcophagus; the chapel of Sixtus V., built
from the designs of Fontana, and richly ornamented;
the chapel of Paul V., adorned with marble and precious
stones; the chapel of Sforza, by Michael Angelo; and
the sepulchres of Guglielmo della Porta and Algardi.
In the square before the front is a Corinthian column,
which is considered a masterpiece of its kind.
The largest church in Rome next to St. Peter’s
was the Basilica di San Paolo fuori delle Mura, on
the road to Ostia, burnt a few years since. The
church of S. Lorenzo, without the city, possesses
some rare monuments of antiquity. The church of
San Pietro in Vincola contains the celebrated statue
of Moses, by Michael Angelo. The church of St.
Agnes, in the place Navona, begun by Rainaldi and
completed by Borromini, is one of the most highly ornamented,
particularly with modern sculpture. Here is the
admirable relief of Algardi, representing St. Agnes
deprived of her clothes, and covered only with her
hair. The Basilica of St. Sebastian, before the
Porta Capena, contains the statue of the dying saint,
by Giorgetti, a pupil of Algardi, and the master of
Bernini. Under these churches are the catacombs,
which formerly served as places of burial. In
the church of St. Agnes, before the Porta Pia, among
many other beautiful columns are four of porphyry,
belonging to the high altar, and considered the most
beautiful in Rome. In a small chapel is a bust
of the Savior by Michael Angelo—a masterpiece.
In the church of St. Augustine, there is a picture
by Raphael representing the prophet Isaiah, and an
Ascension by Lanfranco. The monastery has a rich
library, called the Angelica, and increased by the
library of cardinal Passionei. The following churches
also deserve to be mentioned, on account of their architecture
and works of art; the churches of St. Ignatius, St.
Cecilia, S. Andrea della Valle, S. Andrea del Noviziato,
the Pantheon (also called la Rotonda), in which Raffaelle,
Annibale Caracci, Mengs, etc., are interred.