like an eave or coping, the lower stones of the coating,
which still remain and retain a smooth, polished surface.
As considerable precaution was necessary, the men
made me take off my hat, coat, and shoes at this place;
the younger then placed his raised and extended hands
against the projecting edge of the lower stone, which
reached above his chin; and the elder, taking me up
in his arms as I would a child, placed my feet on
the other’s shoulders, and my body flat on the
smooth surface of the stone. In this position,
we formed an angle with each other; and here I remained
for upwards of two minutes, till the older man went
round, and by some other means, contrived to get over
the projection, when, creeping along the line of junction
of the casing, he took my hands, drew me up to where
he was above me, and then letting down his girdle,
assisted to mount up the younger, but less daring and
less active of the two. We then proceeded much
as follows. One of them got on the shoulders
of the other, and so gained the joining of the stone
above. The upper man then helped me in a similar
action, while the lower pushed me up by the feet.
Having gained this row, we had after to creep to some
distance along the joining, to where another opportunity
of ascending was offered. In this way we proceeded
to the summit; and some idea may be formed of my feelings,
when it is recollected that all of these stones of
such a span are highly polished, are set on an angle
of little less than 45 deg., and that the places we
had to grip with our hands and feet were often not
more than two inches wide, and their height above
the ground more than 400 feet. A single slip of
the foot, and we all three must have been dashed to
atoms long before we reached the bottom. (This actually
happened to an English traveler in 1850.) On gaining
the top, my guides gave vent to sundry demonstrations
of satisfaction, clapping me on the back, patting
me on the head, and kissing my hands. From this
I began to suspect that something wonderful had been
achieved; and some idea of my perilous situation broke
upon me, when I saw some of my friends beneath, waving
their handkerchiefs and looking up with astonishment,
as we sat perched upon the top, which is not more
than six feet square. The apex stone is off, and
it now consists of four outer slabs, and one in the
centre, which is raised up on the end and leans to
the eastward. I do not think human hands could
have raised it from its bed, on account of its size,
and the confined space they would have to work in.
I am inclined to think the top was struck by lightning,
and the position of the stone thus altered by it.
The three of us had just room to sit upon the place.
The descent, as might be expected, was much more dangerous,
though not so difficult. The guides tied a long
sash under my arms, and so let me slide down from
course to course of these coverings of stones, which
are of a yellowish limestone, somewhat different from
the material of which the steps are composed, and
totally distinct from the rock at the base, or the
coating of the passages.”