LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS

Facingpage Charleston is the last stronghold of a unified American upper class; the last remaining American city in which Madeira and Port and noblesse oblige are fully and widely understood, and are employed according to the best traditions Frontispiece

“Railroad tickets!” said the baggageman with exaggerated patience 8

Can most travellers, I wonder, enjoy as I do a solitary walk, by night, through the mysterious streets of a strange city? 17

Coming out of my slumber with the curious and unpleasant sense of being stared at, I found his eyes fixed upon me 24

Mount Vernon Place is the centre of Baltimore 32

If she is shopping for a dinner party, she may order the costly and aristocratic diamond-back terrapin, sacred in Baltimore as is the Sacred Cod in Boston 48

Doughoregan Manor—­the house was a buff-colored brick 65

I began to realize that there was no one coming 80

Harper’s Ferry is an entrancing old town; a drowsy place piled up beautifully yet carelessly upon terraced roads clinging to steep hillsides 100

“What’s the matter with him?” I asked, stopping 117

When I came down, dressed for riding, my companion was making a drawing; the four young ladies were with him, none of them in riding habits 124

Claymont Court is one of the old Washington houses 132

Chatham, the old Fitzhugh house, now the residence of Mark Sullivan 148

Monticello stands on a lofty hilltop, with vistas, between trees of neighboring valleys, hills, and mountains 157

Like Venice, the University of Virginia should first be seen by moonlight 168

One party was stationed on the top of an old-time mail-coach, bearing the significant initials “F.F.V.” 180

The Piedmont Hunt Race Meet 189

The Southern negro is the world’s peasant supreme 200

The Country Club of Virginia, out to the west of Richmond 216

Judge Crutchfield 228

Negro women squatting upon boxes in old shadowy lofts stem the tobacco leaves 237

The Judge:  “What did he do, Mandy?” 244

Some genuine old-time New York ferryboats help to complete the illusion that Norfolk is New York 253