BERKHAMPSTEAD (Great) an interesting town in the W. of the county, is situated on the little river Bulbourne, and is chiefly famous as the birthplace of William Cowper, who was born in the rectory on 26th November, 1731.  The Grammar School was founded by Dr. John Incent in 1541.  The castle, of which there are still ruins close to the L.&N.W.R., dates from before the Domesday Survey.  Visitors must not expect to find a castle here such as those at Carisbroke or Lewes.  The ruins, although of considerable extent, are fragmentary, and little more than the plan of this stronghold can now be traced.  The moats are double to the N.W., but triple elsewhere.  Henry II. held a court here; and the castle was at times the residence of many monarchs, particularly Edward III.  The Black Prince was a visitor here during his father’s reign.  The Church of St. Peter, on the N. side of the High Street, is by local authorities claimed to be larger than any parish church in the county, saving only St. Albans Abbey; but this distinction is also claimed for St. Mary’s, Hitchin.  The original structure was of great antiquity, dating from pre-Norman times; but it was wholly rebuilt early in the reign of Henry III.  There are chantry chapels on either side of each transept; that called “St. John’s Chantry” dates from about 1350.  Among many other features of interest note (1) fine groined roof of northern chantries; (2) lancet windows in the chancel, containing fourteenth century glass; (3) the E. window, a memorial to the poet Cowper; (4) tablet to Ann Cowper, the poet’s mother; (5) brass to John Raven, Esquire to the Black Prince; (6) altar tomb to John Sayer, head cook to Charles II.; (7) mosaic reredos; (8) altar tomb and effigies of Richard Torrington (d. 1356) and Margaret his wife, in N. transept.  During the restoration of this transept in 1881 a portion of an ancient arch was discovered.

[Illustration:  CASTLE STREET, BERKHAMPSTEAD]

The Grand Junction Canal is close to the river Bulbourne, and partly for this reason many small industries are pursued in the town, such as the making of straw plait, scoops and shovels of various sorts, army tent-pegs, etc.  The present rectory is on a small hill near the church, to the S. of the High Street; it stands on the site of the former house, in which Cowper was born, and the old well-house, called “Cowper’s Well,” may still be seen.  There is a good library in the Mechanics’ Institute.  The almshouses, for six widows, were founded in 1681, by the John Sayer mentioned above.  The Kings of Mercia are known to have resided and held courts here; King Whithred summoned a council to meet at Berghamstedt in 697.

BERKHAMPSTEAD, LITTLE (3 miles S. from Cole Green Station, G.N.R.), has a stone church erected early in the seventeenth century.  It has a wooden belfry and spire.  The building was restored in 1856-7, but contains little of architectural or historical interest.  There are, however, several memorials, notably the altar table in memory of Bishop Ken, born in the parish in 1637.  On a hill N.E. from the church stands the tall red-brick observatory erected by John Stratton in 1789, in order, as it is said, that from its summit he might watch his ships in the Thames.  The tower has been called “Stratton’s Folly”.