VERULAM.  Of the old Roman municipium (Verulamium) there now remains above ground little more than some large fragments of crumbling wall in the valley of the Ver, immediately S.W. from St. Albans.  Passing under the old Gatehouse and crossing the bridge at the Silk Mill the visitor, instead of turning right and following the course of the Ver, should keep straight on and pass the small gate into Verulam Woods.  On his right as he follows the broad footpath will be the outer E. wall of the Roman city; on his left what appears a long gorge, overgrown by bushes and trees of many species, was once the fosse.  Note the great thickness and solidity of the walls, and the tile-like bricks, similar to those in the Abbey tower, mingled with flints.  Presently both wall and fosse turn sharply W. and may be followed in that direction for a considerable distance.  The walls may also be traced at other spots farther W., particularly a large mass known as Gorhambury Block, believed to mark the boundary of the municipium in that direction.

It has been mentioned in the Introduction (Section IX.) that the only Roman theatre known to have existed in England stood in this neighbourhood.  Its remains were discovered rather more than seventy years ago in a field immediately W. from St. Michael’s Church; nothing is now to be seen, for the excavations have been again covered.  The discovery included that of the stage, somewhat narrow, the auditorium, with many rows of seats, and portions of the frescoed walls.  Many coins were found among the ruins.

Mention must be made of the fact that the Roman Verulamium was the scene of the awful massacre in the time of Boadicea, when the Queen of the Iceni, with a great number of followers, slew alike the British and Roman inhabitants and partially destroyed the city (A.D. 61).  An account of this is in the Annals of Tacitus.  The place was subsequently rebuilt and occupied by the Saxons, who called it Watlingceaster, or Werlamceaster.

Wade’s Mill. (See Thundridge.)

Wakely (2 miles W. from Westmill Station, G.E.R.) is a hamlet in Westmill parish, consisting of a farm and a few cottages.

WALKERN (41/2 miles E. from Stevenage) is a large village, with many picturesque nooks and cottages.  The river Beane skirts it on the E. side.  The manor is very ancient; Chauncy speaks of “Walkerne” as a town, and mentions a mill which stood in his day (1632-1719) at its S. end, presumably where Walkern Mill now stands.  The church, on a knoll sloping to the Beane, is mostly Perp., but retains Norman work in the S. aisle; the chancel is modern, E.E. in style.  The effigy in Purbeck marble in a recess of S. wall, of a knight in chain mail, is thought to represent one of the Lanvalei family.  If so, it forms an interesting link with a remote past, for in the reign of King John one Alan Basset paid a hundred marks to that monarch, and gave him a palfrey “that his daughter might marry the heir of William de Lanvalley”.  There are also effigies on brass to the Humberstone family (sixteenth century). Walkern Hall (1 mile S.E.) stands in a small but pretty park; Walkern Bury (1 mile E.) can still show some remains of a castle.