Trees, Fruits and Flowers of Minnesota, 1916 eBook

This eBook from the Gutenberg Project consists of approximately 825 pages of information about Trees, Fruits and Flowers of Minnesota, 1916.

Trees, Fruits and Flowers of Minnesota, 1916 eBook

This eBook from the Gutenberg Project consists of approximately 825 pages of information about Trees, Fruits and Flowers of Minnesota, 1916.
special care, particularly north of the fortieth parallel.  Teas and hybrid teas hardly succeed in Chicago, although the hybrid-perpetuals grow as far north as Canada.  All these classes do well on Long Island and in Boston near the sea when proper care is given them.  These varieties in the vicinity of Washington need merely a little manure on the ground to prevent alternate freezing and thawing.  Farther north, however, they should be treated as follows: 

Cut the tops to within 30 inches of the ground.  Cover the roots with coarse manure or leaves or similar litter.  Hold this in place by evergreen boughs which also acts as a protection.  Brush from deciduous trees or shrubs may be substituted for the evergreen boughs except in the most northern regions.

Mounds of earth about six or eight inches in height should be drawn about the base of the rose bushes to keep them from mice.  As an added protection against mice, permit the ground to freeze slightly before winter protection is supplied.  In fact, roses should not be protected until after the first light freeze, which may be expected in Washington, D.C., about the first of December, but earlier farther north. (Tops must be protected in Minnesota.—­Sec.)

Climbing Roses.—­In the latitude of Philadelphia and farther south climbing roses usually need no protection during the winter unless they are a particularly tender variety.  Farther north these roses need protection similar to that given to the tea and hybrid tea roses.

Where it is possible to do so, remove climbing roses from their supports, and cover the branches with a little dirt.  A little fall trimming might be desirable to lessen the space occupied by the branches on the ground.  Such side branches as are not to be needed for next season’s blooming may be cut off.  Such cutting off and shortening of the ends as would otherwise be done in the spring may be done in the fall before covering, merely for convenience.

Growing Asparagus.

A DISCUSSION LED BY E. W. RECORD, MARKET GARDENER, BROOKLYN CENTER.

A Member:  I want to ask if many put salt on asparagus?

Mr. Record:  Salt is very good, but I think only for the reason that it makes the plant tender and keeps down insects.  But if I was to use anything to keep insects down I should use Paris green.  Shorts or bran, that is the best for cutworms.  Everybody knows that with the least scratch or mar on the side of the asparagus it will grow crooked, and then it is a pretty hard proposition to get it into the bunch ready for market in any kind of shape.

A Member:  Some have the idea that salt helps the growth of the plant.

Mr. Record:  Well, I never found it did.

Mr. Baldwin:  I would like to know how to control rust on the stems in the summer time.

Mr. Record:  Well, I can’t answer, but I find that the Palmetto has less rust on it than any other variety.  I have never been bothered with asparagus rust yet.

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Trees, Fruits and Flowers of Minnesota, 1916 from Project Gutenberg. Public domain.