The fundamental principles to guide the bee keeper in wintering his bees are:  First, strong colonies, at least six frames covered with bees when clustered; second, ample store, not less than forty pounds of honey; and third, a hive with not less than 57 degrees inside temperature.  This temperature may be maintained outside in a double walled hive or in a hive lined with flax or felt, now manufactured for that purpose, or by packing the hives in leaves, straw or shavings—­or by putting them into a warm cellar.

Bees in our climate should be put into winter quarters about November 15 and should not be put on their summer stands in the spring until soft maples are in bloom.

By following these suggestions winter losses may be reduced to an insignificant percentage, and these mostly from accidents and causes unforseen, for bees respond wonderfully to proper treatment.

The Currant as a Market Garden Product.

B. Wallner, Jr., West st. Paul.

The currant is essentially a northern fruit, therefore does well in
Minnesota.

I plant my currants on a clay loam as it retains moisture and coolness, which the currant prefers.  Their roots run somewhat shallow, and hence sandy or friable soils are not desirable.  Soils such as will prevent a stagnant condition during heavy rainfalls are essential.  I plant my currants early in spring as soon as the frost leaves the ground and a proper preparation can be secured.  I plant them five by five feet apart, as they require a thorough cultivation the first two years from planting.

I plant mangels between the rows the first year; second year continued cultivation is practiced; third year I apply a mulch consisting of mushroom manure to a depth of from four to six inches, which answers a double purpose, to keep out weeds and to act as mulch at the same time.  During a prolonged dry spell the soil is moist under this covering, and it makes it more pleasant for the picking, as it prevents the berries getting soiled after a rain during the picking season.  You cannot fertilize the currant too abundantly, as it is a gross feeder and requires plenty of manure to get best results, as such fruit commands the best price on the market.

I planted my currants on ground previously well fertilized with well decayed barnyard manure.

I prefer strong well rooted two-year-old plants.  The long straggling roots are shortened, and bruised portions cut off with a sharp knife.  The tops are somewhat reduced, depending on the size of plants.  I set them in a furrow, sufficiently deep to admit the roots to spread out in a natural position, fill in with surface soil and pack around the roots, so that when the earth is firmly settled the roots will not protrude out any place.

In regard to pruning I find the best and largest fruit is produced on canes not over four years old, and if judicious cutting out of the old canes is followed nice, large, full clusters of fruit of excellent character will be obtained.  This is a fact that I want to emphasize:  if the market is glutted with currants, you can readily dispose of your product, providing they are qualified as extra large, which results can be attained by following these rules.