[Illustration:  Martin Frydholm in his rose garden, at Albert Lea.]

Another class of roses is the Baby Ramblers.  For borders and bedding roses these I think surpass all others on account of the easiness by which they may be grown.  And they are a perfect mass of blossoms from June till freezing.  They need winter protection, but that is not difficult on account of the low growth and small size of plant.

Above all do not forget that all roses need rich soil and lots of water.  When your rose bushes are three years old you must begin to give some attention to trimming.  Cut out some of the oldest wood before you lay them down in the fall, and if some of the shoots have grown very tall cut back about half, although these rank canes may give you the best roses the following season if you can protect them well enough so that they do not winter-kill.  In this photograph which is shown here is one Ulric Brunner with one shoot extending two feet above my head and covered all along with the most magnificent roses I have ever had in my garden.  The same thing I have done with the General Jacquiminot.

Asparagus by the Acre.

E. W. RECORD, MARKET GARDENER, BROOKLYN CENTER.

First I am careful about selecting seed of a good variety.  My choice is Palmetto, because it is hardy and the best seller on our market.  In starting a bed I sow my seed as early as possible in the spring in rows about eighteen inches apart, and when the plants are well up I thin out to about an inch, so the roots will not be so hard to separate when ready to transplant.  My experience has been that plants two years old are more easily handled than those one or three, because the one year plants are not matured enough, while the roots of the three year old have become too matured, and when separated too many of the roots are broken off.

In preparing the ground for asparagus I plow and then harrow it and mark it off so the rows will be five feet apart.  I plow a furrow from fourteen to sixteen inches deep, throwing the dirt both ways.  Then with my cultivator I loosen up the bottom of the furrow.  I place the plants in the furrow about eighteen inches apart, being careful to spread the roots evenly over the bottom of the furrow, putting a little dirt over them to hold them in place.  With my cultivator I keep filling in the furrow, at the same time plowing out the middle to keep down the weeds.

In fertilizing a bed of asparagus my experience has been that the best way is to plow a furrow between the rows, filling it with barnyard manure, then covering this with earth.  Spreading the manure broadcast makes too many of the stalks grow crooked.

I never cut my asparagus for market until the third year, and then only for a short time.  By the fifth year the bed is strong enough to cut the whole season.  When the season is over I cultivate often enough to keep down the weeds.  I never cut the old stalks off until spring, because after the first freeze the stalks are hollow, and this would allow the frost to run down into the roots.