Before making acquaintance with the famous palaces and parks, we undertook to settle ourselves for the time being, at least.  It appeared that “furnished” villas are so called in Tzarskoe, as elsewhere, because they require to be almost completely furnished by the occupant on a foundation of bare bones of furniture, consisting of a few bedsteads and tables.  This was not convenient for travelers; neither did we wish to commit ourselves for the whole season to the cares of housekeeping, lest a change of air should be ordered suddenly; so we determined to try to live in another way.

Boarding-houses are as scarce here as in St. Petersburg, the whole town boasting but one,—­advertised as a wonderful rarity,—­which was very badly situated.  There were plenty of traktiri, or low-class eating-houses, some of which had “numbers for arrivers”—­that is to say, rooms for guests—­added to their gaudy signs.  These were not to be thought of.  But we had been told of an establishment which rejoiced in the proud title of gostinnitza, “hotel,” in city fashion.  It looked fairly good, and there we took up our abode, after due and inevitable chaffering.  This hotel was kept, over shops, on the first and part of the second floor of a building which had originally been destined for apartments.  Its only recommendation was that it was situated near a very desirable gate into the Imperial Park.

Our experience there was sufficient to slake all curiosity as to Russian summer resort hotels, or country hotels in provincial towns, since that was its character; though it had, besides, some hindrances which were peculiar, I hope, to itself.  The usual clean, large dining-room, with the polished floor, table decorated with plants, and lace curtains, was irresistibly attractive, especially to wedding parties of shopkeepers, who danced twelve hours at a stretch, and to breakfast parties after funerals, whose guests made rather more uproar on afternoons than did those of the wedding balls in the evening, as they sang the customary doleful chants, and then warmed up to the occasion with bottled consolation.  The establishment being shorthanded for waiters, these entertainments interfered seriously with our meals, which we took in private; and we were often forced to go hungry until long after the hour, because there was so much to eat in the house!

Our first experience of the place was characteristic.  The waiter, who was also “boots,” chambermaid, and clerk, on occasion, distributed two sheets, two pillows, one blanket, and one “cold” (cotton) coverlet between the two beds, and considered that ample, as no doubt it was according to some lights and according to the almanac, though the weather resembled November just then, and I saw snow a few days later.  Having succeeded in getting this rectified, after some discussion, I asked for towels.

“There is one,” answered Mikhei (Micah), with his most fascinating smile.