The furs and the Russians’ sensible manner of dressing in general, which I have described, have much to do with their comfort and freedom from colds.  No Russian enters a room, theatre, or public hall at any season of the year with his cloak and overshoes, and no well-trained servant would allow an ignorant foreigner to trifle with his health by so doing.  Even the foreign churches are provided with cloak-rooms and attendants.  And the Russian churches?  On grand occasions, when space is railed off for officials or favored guests, cloak-racks and attendants are provided near the door for the privileged ones, who must display their uniforms and gowns as a matter of state etiquette.  The women find the light shawl —­which they wear under their fur to preserve the gown from hairs, to shield the chest, and for precisely such emergencies—­sufficient protection.  On ordinary occasions, people who do not keep a lackey to hold their cloaks just inside the entrance have an opportunity to practice Russian endurance, and unless the crowd is very dense, the large and lofty space renders it quite possible, though the churches are heated, to retain the fur cloak; but it is not healthy, and not always comfortable.  It would not be possible to provide cloak-rooms and attendants for the thousands upon thousands who attend church service on Sundays and holidays.  With the foreign churches, whose attendance is limited comparatively, it is a different matter.

One difficulty about foreigners visiting Russia in winter is, that those who come for a short visit are rarely willing to go to the expense of the requisite furs.  In general, they are so reckless of their health as to inspire horror in any one who is acquainted with the treacherous climate.  I remember a couple of Americans, who resisted all remonstrances because they were on their way to a warmer clime, and went about when the thermometer was twenty-five to thirty degrees below zero Reaumur, in light, unwadded mantles, reaching only to the waist line, and with loose sleeves.  A Russian remarked of them:  “They might have shown some respect for the climate, and have put on flannel compresses, or a mustard plaster at least!” Naturally, an illness was the result.  If such people would try to bargain for the very handsome and stylish coffins which they would consider in keeping with their dignity, they would come to the conclusion that furs would prove cheaper and less troublesome.  But furs or coffins, necessaries or luxuries, everything must be bargained for in Holy Russia, and with the American affection for the national game of poker, that should not constitute an objection to the country.  Only non-card-players will mind such a trifle as bluff.*

* Reprinted, in part, from Lippincott’s Magazine.

V.

EXPERIENCES.

So much has been said about the habits of the late Emperor Alexander III. in his capital, that a brief statement of them will not be out of place, especially as I had one or two experiences, in addition to the ordinary opportunities afforded by a long visit and knowledge of the language and manners of the people.