I afterwards met Sturdza several times in restaurants and drawing-rooms without his attempting to carry out his threats.  This man, whose nature was that of a daring adventurer, afterwards deserted to the Russian army, and fought against us at a time when Roumania still was neutral.  I then completely lost sight of him.

The absolute freedom of the Press in the Balkan States, combined with the brutality of the prevailing customs, produced the most varied results, even going so far as abuse of their own kings.  In this connection King Carol gave me many drastic instances.  While King Ferdinand was still neutral, one of the comic papers contained a picture of the King taking aim at a hare, while underneath were these words, supposed to come from the hare:  “My friend, you have long ears, I have long ears; you are a coward, I am a coward.  Wherefore would my brother shoot me?”

On the day when war broke out this freedom of the Press was diverted into a different channel and replaced by the severest control and censorship.

Roumania is a land of contrasts, both as regards the landscape, the climate, and social conditions.  The mountainous north, with the wonderful Carpathians, is one of the most beautiful districts.  Then there are the endless, unspeakably monotonous, but fertile plains of Wallachia, leading into the valley of the Danube, which is a very Paradise.  In spring particularly, when the Danube each year overflows its banks, the beauty of the landscape baffles description.  It is reminiscent of the tropics, with virgin forests standing in the water, and islands covered with luxuriant growth scattered here and there.  It is an ideal country for the sportsman.  All kinds of birds, herons, ducks, pelicans, and others, are to be met with, besides wolves and wild cats, and days may be spent in rowing and walking in this Paradise without wearying of it.

The Roumanians usually care but little for sport, being averse to physical exertion.  Whenever they can they leave the country and spend their time in Paris or on the Riviera.  This love of travel is so strong in them that a law was passed compelling them to spend a certain portion of the year in their own country or else pay the penalty of a higher tax.  The country people, in their sad poverty, form a great contrast to the enormously wealthy Bojars.  Although very backward in everything relating to culture, the Roumanian peasant is a busy, quiet, and easily satisfied type, unpretentious to a touching degree when compared with the upper classes.

Social conditions among the upper ten thousand have been greatly complicated owing to the abolition of nobility, whereby the question of titles plays a part unequalled anywhere else in the world.  Almost every Roumanian has a title derived from one or other source; he values it highly, and takes it much amiss when a foreigner betrays his ignorance on the subject.  As a rule, it is safer to adopt the plan of addressing