to peace and content.  I am almost tempted to wish for the quiet of our English home and the sight of your dear face.  But this must not be.  I shall forget to give you some sights of Rome if I indulge in vain and foolish regrets.  Really I am at a loss how to convey any idea of such scenes as we are almost daily witnessing.  In the present instance I feel my inability to appreciate what is lofty and inspiring to every cultivated mind.  Often I am inclined to envy those of brilliant intellectual perceptions like yourself.  When the day arrives that you visit the Eternal City will it not be viewed in a different sense than in the present under the ordinary gaze of your short-sighted Rosamond?

Gerald says:  “Tell Mary something of the churches,” without thinking of the arduous task therein devolved.  Poor fellow!  He seems anxious to make amends for so much self-sacrifice.  In compliance to his wishes your friend reaps twofold pleasure, therefore Mary shall hear “of the churches.”

About three weeks ago a party of tourists, including the Croftons and ourselves; visited several of the grand old churches, so important in the history of Roman architecture of classic ages.  The first we entered was the church of the Ara Coeli, said to occupy the site of the ancient temple of Jupiter Feretrius.  It was a gloomy old structure with long rows of pillars of Etruscan design.  On ascending the long flight of steep stairs on one side the impressive gloom increased.  The situation awoke old associations of the sybilline and vague predictions of the time-honored soothsayers—­their power—­their greatness—­their fall.  We were more than impressed with the churches of St. Giovanni and St. Paolo, beneath which lay in awful depths the subterranean caverns said to be connected with the Coliseum.  Gerald remained above while I followed the explorers through these dismal yawning gulfs seemingly ready to open and shut their victims in a living tomb.  Streets ran in various directions; the mouldy, damp walls emitted a disagreeable watery vapor that rendered the air unbearable; stagnant pools lay on all sides.  Is it not an appalling thought that these successive ranges of caverns were constructed for the human victims to be eaten by the beasts at the Coliseum, yet such is the legend.  Doubtless you already weary of churches, but having first attempted them at the suggestion of Gerald, now I am deeply interested in the matter myself.  But you will only listen to one more very short account.  The church of San Sebastiano, which next received us, is situated on the Appian Way, and perhaps the most remarkable of any we have hitherto visited.  The site is truly beyond description.  The stupendous masses of rocks piled on every side appeared to give it an interest more than common.  The endless rows of decaying columns, pillars, stained windows, and paintings, added one more link to the chain of daily events which form such an important part in our visit.