The etiquette of the Spanish Court, although it was much modified by Alfonso XII., is still very formal.  A perfectly infinite number of mayordomos, caballerizos, gentiles hombres de casa y boca, ujieres, alabarderos, monteros, aides-de-camp, Grandes de Espana de servicio, ladies-in-waiting, lackeys, servants, and attendants of every possible description abound.  A man going to an audience with royalty uncovers as he enters the Palace.  First, he will find the alabardero de servicio placed at the entrance of the vestibule; farther on, more alabarderos.  Whenever a Grande de Espana, a prelate, a grand cross, or a title of Castile passes, these guards strike the marble floor with their arms—­a noise which may well cause the uninitiated to start.  Three halls are used for grouping, according to their rank, those who are about to be presented:  first, the saleta, where ordinary people—­all the world, in fact—­wait; next, the camara, for those who have titles or wear the grand cross; third, the antecamara, reserved for the Grandes of Spain, and gentiles hombres en ejercio.  The Grandes of Spain, chamberlains of the King, share between them the service of his Majesty.  They are called in rotation, one day’s notice being given before they are expected to attend in the Palace.  In the ante-chamber of the King there is always the Grande in waiting, the lady-in-waiting on the Queen, two aides-de-camp, and a gentil hombre del interior (the last must not be confounded with the gentiles hombres en ejercicio, who have the right to enter the ante-chamber).  There are, of course, equerries (caballerizos) who attend, as ours do, on horseback, when the King or Queen goes out; but the most essentially Spanish attendants are the Monteros de Espinosa, who have the exclusive right to watch while Royalty sleeps.  These attendants must all be born in Espinosa; it is an hereditary honour, and the wives of the existing Monteros are careful to go to Espinosa when they expect an addition to their family, as no one not actually born there can hold the office.  At the present time this guard is recruited from captains or lieutenants on the retired list.

In the ante-chamber of each member of the Royal Family two of these take their place at eleven o’clock; they never speak, never sit down, but pass the whole night pacing the room, crossing each other as they go, until morning relieves them from what must be rather a trying watch.  At eleven o’clock each evening there is a solemn procession of servants and officials in imposing uniforms down the grand staircase of the Palace; every door is closed and locked by a gentleman wearing an antique costume and a three-cornered hat, and having an enormous bunch of keys.  From that time the Palace remains under the exclusive charge of the Monteros de Espinosa.  Although this is the official programme, it is to be hoped the hour is not a fixed one.  It would