One great characteristic is the intense love of children which is exhibited by all classes, and there is no surer way to the good will of a native than a kindness, however slight, to a child in whom he or she is interested.  As is natural under such circumstances, the children are shockingly indulged and spoilt, with all the resultant unpleasant and evil consequences.  Cats, also, are great favourites with the Portuguese, and the thousands of shabby animals of Lisbon and Oporto show no sign of fear if a stranger stops to stroke them.  They are accustomed to kind treatment, and look upon all human beings as friends.

As a rule, a rather large number of servants are employed.  They are poorly paid, and in many households indifferently fed and housed.  Often they are dirty, lazy, dishonest sluts.  They chatter shrilly with the master or mistress, answer and argue when told of any shortcoming, and are always ready to go off at a moment’s notice.  But they are often capable of devoted service, and of a sincere desire to be obliging, and may always be counted on to exhibit the utmost kindness to the children of the house.  Their written references, as a rule, are frauds.  If you ask for the boas referencias (good references), so often mentioned in the advertisements of criadas (female servants), you will probably find that, even if genuine, they are antiquated, and that they leave many gaps between the various periods of service which can only be filled up by conjecture. Criadas are not, as a rule, of immaculate virtue, and give some trouble by their desire to go to festas and to servants’ balls.  The male servants are, as a rule, better than the criadas.  Servants are somewhat roughly treated, and are ordered about as if they were dogs.  It is always said that they do not understand or appreciate milder or more civil treatment, and are inclined to despise a master or mistress who uses the Portuguese equivalent to “please,” or who acknowledges a service with thanks.  I am inclined to doubt this, both from my personal observation and from a casual remark made to me by the landlady of a hotel at Cintra, that her waiters and servants much preferred English to native visitors, because of the greater politeness and consideration shown to them by the former.  Of course, as in all other countries, servants are described as one of the greatest plagues in life; but this must be taken for what it is worth.  And what would the ladies do without such a subject to grumble about?

Portugal is a poor country, despite its natural resources.  The wealthy people are few, and consist mainly of returned Brazilians.  It cannot be said, either, that the classes in the enjoyment of a competence constitute a fair average of the community.  But the poor are very abundant.  Wages are terribly low, even a foreman in an engineering shop getting only a milrei a day, averaging 3s. 2d. in English money.  On the other hand, it must be remembered