The Brazilian element is most conspicuous in Lisbon, and partly in consequence that city is only a little modern capital, somewhat feebly imitating Paris in certain ways, and, consequently, lacking the individuality and interest of Oporto.  Yet Lisbon has a charm of its own; and the beauties of the Aveneida, the Roscio (known to the English as the “Rolling Motion Square,” from its curious pattern of black and white pavement), the Black Horse Square, the broad and beautiful Tagus, the hills whereon the city is built, and the lovely gardens with their sub-tropical vegetation, will repay a stay of some weeks’ duration.

Outside the mercantile element, there is considerable difficulty for a stranger to formulate the boundaries of other social strata.  It would appear that the professions are in an indifferent position.  Lawyers, of course, as in most other countries, are looked upon as rogues.  How far this is the effect of the general prejudice, or whether it has any special foundation in fact, it would be hard to say.  No doubt there are upright men amongst them, as in every other walk of life.  There is a general idea that the medical training is lax, and the doctors, as a rule, are not highly considered.  It is admitted, however, that they are as devoted, and as ready to risk their own lives, as those of other countries, a fact which was fully proved by several of the doctors at Oporto and Lisbon on the occasion of the outbreak of the plague in 1899.

The system of fees in general use tends to damage the position of both lawyers and doctors.  In reply to the question as to his indebtedness, the client or the patient is told:  “What you please.”  This sounds courteous, but is, in effect, embarrassing, as it is hard to estimate what is a fair fee under the circumstances, and generally one or the other of the parties is dissatisfied, and a sore feeling is left behind.

There are several orders of knighthood, which are showered about on occasion.  The reasons for giving them are various.  For instance, a Court tradesman may receive a decoration in lieu of immediate payment of a long-standing bill.  The ribbons and buttons are not worn so freely as elsewhere on the Continent.  The polite style in addressing a stranger is in the third person, and such titles as Your Excellency, Your Lordship, and Your Worship, sometimes enlarged with the adjective illustrissimo (most illustrious), are common enough.  When an Englishman is first addressed as Vossa Illustrissima Excellencia (Your Most Illustrious Excellency), he begins to feel as if he were playing a part in one of Gilbert and Sullivan’s comic operas.  He soon gets used to it, however, and accepts the superlatives without turning a hair.

Of all classes it may be said that their manners are, on the whole, good, and their morals generally lax.  Cleanliness has no special place assigned to it amongst the virtues.  If it comes next to godliness, then the latter must be very low down the scale.  It seems incredible, but verminous heads are to be found in the ranks of well-to-do tradespeople.  Fleas and bugs abound, and happy is he whose skin is too tough, or whose flesh is too sour, to attract these ferocious insects.  There is not much luxury and there is a fair amount of thrift, while frugality of living is common, especially among the populace.