such preposterous vanities, encircled with saints, angels, and clouds; the whole got up very like a scene in a pantomime, and accompanied by music from a concealed orchestra, which was intended, I believe, to be sacred music, but sounded to me like some of Rossini’s airs.  In front of the stage there was a narrow passage divided off, admitting one person at a time, through which a continued file of persons moved along, who threw down their contributions as they passed, bowing and crossing themselves with great devotion.  It would be impossible to describe the ecstasies of the multitude, the lifting up of hands and eyes, the string of superlatives—­the bellissimos, santissimos, gloriosissimos, and maravigliosissimos, with which they expressed their applause and delight.  I stood in the back-ground of this strange scene, supported on one of the long-legged chairs which V——­ placed for me against a pillar, at once amazed, diverted, and disgusted by this display of profaneness and superstition, till the heat and crowd overcame me, and I was obliged to leave the church.  I shall never certainly forget the “Bambino” of the Ara Celi:  for though the exhibition I saw afterwards at the San Luigi (where I went to look at Domenichino’s fine pictures) surpassed what I have just described, it did not so much surprise me.  Something in the same style is exhibited in almost every church, between Christmas day and the Epiphany.

During our examination of Trajan’s Forum to-day, I learnt nothing new, except that Trajan levelled part of the Quirinal to make room for it.  The ground having lately been cleared to the depth of about twelve feet, part of the ancient pavement has been discovered, and many fragments of columns set upright:  pieces of frieze and broken capitals are scattered about.  The pillar, which is now cleared to the base, stands in its original place, but not, as it is supposed, at its original level, for the Romans generally raised the substructure of their buildings, in order to give them a more commanding appearance.  The antiquarians here are of opinion that both the pavement of the Basilica and the base of the pillar were raised above the level of the ancient street, and that there is a flight of steps, still concealed, between the pillar and the pavement in front.  The famous Ulpian Library was on each side of the Basilica, and the Forum differed from other Forums in not being an open space surrounded by buildings, but a building surrounded by an open space.

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Dec 31.-Jan. 1.—­That hour in which we pass from one year to another, and begin a new account with ourselves, with our fellow creatures, and with God, must surely bring some solemn and serious thoughts to the bosoms of the most happy and most unreflecting among the triflers on this earth.  What then must it be to me?  The first hour, the first moment of the expiring year was spent in tears, in distress, in bitterness of heart—­as it began so it