The Barberini Palace contains other treasures beside the Cenci.  Poussin’s celebrated picture of the Death of Germanicus, Raffaelle’s Fornarina, inferior I thought to the one at Florence, and a St. Andrew by Guido, in his very best style of heads, “mild, pale, and penetrating;” besides others which I cannot at this moment recall.

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24.—­Yesterday, after chapel, I walked through part of the Vatican; and then, about vesper-time, entered St. Peter’s, expecting to hear the anthem:  but I was disappointed.  I found the church as usual crowded with English, who every Sunday convert St. Peter’s into a kind of Hyde Park, where they promenade arm in arm, show off their finery, laugh, and talk aloud:  as if the size and splendour of the edifice detracted in any degree from its sacred character.  I was struck with a feeling of disgust; and shocked to see this most glorious temple of the Deity metamorphosed into a mere theatre.  Mr. W. told me this morning, that in consequence of the shameful conduct of the English, in pressing in and out of the chapel, occupying all the seats, irreverently interrupting the service, and almost excluding the natives, the anthem will not be sung in future.

This is not the first time that the behaviour of the English has created offence, in spite of the friendly feeling which exists towards us, and the allowances which are made for our national character.  Last year the pope objected to the indecent custom of making St. Peter’s a place of fashionable rendezvous, and notified to Cardinal Gonsalvi his desire that English ladies and gentlemen should not be seen arm in arm walking up and down the aisles, during and after divine service.  The cardinal, as the best means of proceeding, spoke to the Duchess of Devonshire, who signified the wishes of the Papal Court to a large party, assembled at her house.  The hint so judiciously and so delicately given, was at the time attended to, and during a short interval the offence complained of ceased.  New comers have since recommenced the same course of conduct:  and in fact, nothing could be worse than the exhibition of gaiety and frivolity, gallantry and coquetterie at St. Peter’s yesterday.  I almost wish the pope may interfere, and with rigour; though, individually, I should lose a high gratification, if our visits to St. Peter’s were interdicted.  It is surely most ill-judged and unfeeling (to say nothing of the profanation, for such it is), to show such open contempt for the Roman Catholic religion in its holiest, grandest temple, and under the very eyes of the head of that church.  I blushed for my countrywomen.

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