In some books of travels I have met with, Boccaccio, Aretino, and Guicciardini, are mentioned among the illustrious dead of the Santa Croce.  The second, if his biographers say true, was a wretch, whose ashes ought to have been scattered in the air.  He was buried I believe at Venice—­or no matter where.  Boccaccio’s tomb is, or was, at Certaldo; and Guicciardini’s—­I forget the name of the church honoured by his remains—­but it is not the Santa Croce.

The finest figure on the tomb of Michel Angelo is architecture.  It should be contemplated from the left, to be seen to advantage.  The effect of Alfieri’s monument depends much on the position of the spectator:  when viewed in front, the figure of Italy is very heavy and clumsy; and in no point of view has it the grace and delicacy which Canova’s statues generally possess.

There is a most extraordinary picture in this church representing God the Father supporting a dead Christ, by Cigoli, a painter little known in England, though I have seen some admirable pictures of his in the collections here:  his style reminds me of Spagnoletto’s.

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Our departure is fixed for Wednesday next:  and though I know that change and motion are good for me, yet I dread the fatigue and excitement of travelling; and I shall leave Florence with regret.  For a melancholy invalid like myself, there cannot be a more delightful residence:  it is gay without tumult—­quiet, yet not dull.  I have not mingled in society; therefore cannot judge of the manners of the people.  I trust they are not exactly what Forsyth describes:  with all his taste he sometimes writes like a caustic old bachelor; and on the Florentines he is peculiarly severe.

We leave our friend L. behind for a few days, and our Venice acquaintance V. will be our compagnon de voyage to Rome.  Of these two young men, the first amuses me by his follies, the latter rather fatigues de trop de raison.  The first talks too much, the latter too little:  the first speaks, and speaks egregious nonsense; the latter never says any thing beyond common-place:  the former always makes himself ridiculous, and the latter never makes himself particularly agreeable:  the first is (con rispetto parlando) a great fool, and the latter would be pleasanter were he less wise.  Between these two opposites, I was standing this evening on the banks of the Arno, contemplating a sunset of unequalled splendour.  L. finding that enthusiasm was his cue, played off various sentimental antics, peeped through his fingers, threw his head on one side, exclaiming, “Magnificent, by Jove! grand! grandissimo!  It just reminds me of what Shakspeare says:  ’Fair Aurora’—­I forget the rest.”

V. with his hands in his pockets, contemplated the superb spectacle—­the mountains, the valley, the city flooded with a crimson glory, and the river flowing at our feet like molten gold—­he gazed on it all with a look of placid satisfaction, and then broke out—­“Well! this does one’s heart good!”