of the outlandish tongues the people spoke hereabouts:”
he inquired what was to be seen here, for though he
had been four days in Venice, he had spent every day
precisely in the same manner;
viz. walking up
and down the public gardens. We told him Venice
was famous for fine buildings and pictures; he knew
nothing of
them things. And that it contained
also, “some fine statues and antiques”—he
cared nothing about them neither—he should
set off for Florence the next morning, and begged
to know what was to be seen there? Mr. R——told
him, with enthusiasm, “the most splendid gallery
of pictures and statues in the world!” He looked
very blank and disappointed. “Nothing else?”
then he should certainly not waste his time at Florence,
he should go direct to Rome; he had put down the name
of that
town in his pocket-book, for he understood
it was a very
convenient place: he should
therefore stay there a week; thence he should go to
Naples, a place he had also heard of, where he should
stay another week: then he should go to Algiers,
where he should stay
three weeks, and thence
to Tunis, where he expected to be very comfortable,
and should probably make a long stay; thence he should
return home, having seen every thing worth seeing.
He scarcely seemed to know how or by what route he
had got to Venice—but he assured us he had
come “fast enough;”—he remembered
no place he had passed through except Paris. At
Paris he told us there was a female lodging in the
same hotel with himself, who by his description appears
to have been a single lady of rank and fashion, travelling
with her own carriages and a suite of servants.
He had never seen her; but learning through the domestics
that she was travelling the same route, he sat down
and wrote her a long letter, beginning “Dear
Madam,” and proposing they should join company,
“for the sake of good fellowship, and the
bit
of chat they might have on their way.”
Of course she took no notice of this strange billet,
“from which,” added he with ludicrous
simplicity, “I supposed she would rather travel
alone.”
Truly, “Nature hath framed strange fellows in
her time.” After this specimen, sketched
from life, who will say there are such things as caricatures?
* * * *
*
We visited to-day the Giant’s Staircase and
the Bridge of Sighs, and took a last farewell of St.
Mark—we were surprised to see the church
hung with black—the festoons of flowers
all removed—masses going forward at several
altars, and crowds of people looking particularly
solemn and devout. It is the “Giorno dei
morte,” the day by the Roman Catholics consecrated
to the dead. I observed many persons, both men
and women, who wept while they prayed, with every appearance
of the most profound grief. Leaving St. Mark,
I crossed the square. On the three lofty standards
in front of the church formerly floated the ensigns
of the three states subjects to Venice,—the
Morea, Cyprus, and Candia: the bare poles remain,
but the ensigns of empire are gone. One of the
standards was extended on the ground, and being of
immense length, I hesitated for a moment whether I
should make a circuit, but at last stepped over it.
I looked back with remorse, for it was like trampling
over the fallen.