Their bark was manned by four negroes and a white skipper.  At first they ran merrily before a favourable wind, but in two hours the crew were compelled to take to the oars, the method of using which was exceedingly fatiguing.  At each dip of the oar, the rower mounts upon a bench in front of him, and then, during the stroke, throws himself off again, with his full force.  In two hours more they passed into the river Geromerino, and made their way through a world of beautiful aquatic plants which covered the tranquil waters in every direction.  The river banks are flat, and fringed with underwood and young trees; the background is formed by ranges of low green hills.

At Porto d’Estrella, Madame Pfeiffer and her companion landed, and proceeded on foot towards Petropolis.  The first eight miles lay through a broad valley, clothed with dense brambles and young trees, and shadowed by lofty mountains.  The wild pine-apples by the roadside were very fair to see; they were not quite ripe, but tinted of the most delicate red.  Beautiful humming-birds flashed through the air like “winged jewels,” and studded the dense foliage with points of many-coloured light.

After passing through the valley, they reached the Sierra, as the Brazilians term the practicable mountain-summits.  It was three thousand feet in height, and was ascended by a broad paved road, striking through the depths of virgin forests.

Madame Pfeiffer had always imagined that the trees in virgin forests had very thick and lofty trunks; but such was not the case here; probably because the vegetation was too luxuriant, and the larger trunks have the life crushed out of them by masses of smaller trees, bushes, creepers, and parasites.

Frequent truppas, or teams of ten mules driven by a negro, as well as numerous pedestrians, enlivened the path, and prevented our travellers from observing that their steps were persistently followed up by a negro.  When, however, they arrived at a somewhat lonely spot, this negro suddenly sprang forward, holding a lasso in one hand and a long knife in the other, and with threatening gestures gave them to understand that he intended to murder them, and then drag their dead bodies into the forest!

The travellers were without arms, having been told the road was perfectly safe; their only weapons were their umbrellas, with the exception of a clasp-knife.  This the brave woman drew from her pocket and opened, in the calm resolution to sell her life as dearly as possible.  With their umbrellas they parried their adversary’s blows as long as they could; but he caught hold of Madame Ida’s, which snapped off, leaving only a piece of the handle in her hand.  In the struggle, however, he dropped his knife, which rolled a few steps away from him.  Madame Ida immediately made a dash at it, and thought she had secured it; but, quicker in his movements than she was, he thrust her away with his hands and feet, and