Tamatave, when visited by Madame Pfeiffer looked like a poor but very large village, with between four and five thousand inhabitants.  Of late years, however, it has grown into a place of much commercial importance.  There are some decent houses; but the natives live chiefly in small huts, which are scattered over a wide area, with scarcely any attempt at regularity of arrangement.  These huts are supported on piles from six to ten feet high.  They are built of wood or of bamboo, thatched with long grass or palm-leaves; and they contain only one room, of which the fireplace occupies a disproportionate share.  Windows are wanting, but light and air are admitted through two opposite doors.

The bazaar is situated in the middle of the village, on an irregular piece of ground, and is distinguished alike by its dirt and poverty.  The articles exposed for sale are only a supply of beef, some sugar-cane, rice, and a few fruits; and the whole stock of one of the dealers would be dear at a couple of shillings.  The oxen are slaughtered on the spot, and their flesh sold in thick hunches, with the skin, which is esteemed a great delicacy.  Meat is not bought according to weight, but the size of each piece is measured by the eye.

The Tamatavians are principally Malagasys; and, physically, their appearance does not recommend them.  They have wide mouths, with thick lips; their noses are broad and flat; their chins protrude; their cheek-bones are disagreeably prominent.  Their complexion may be any shade of a muddy brown.  Generally, their teeth are regular, and very white; but against this redeeming trait must be put their hideous hair, which is coal-black, very long, very woolly, and very coarse.  When worn in all its natural amplitude, its effect is curiously disagreeable.  The face seems lost in a “boundless convexity” of thick frizzled hair, which stands out in every direction.  But, usually, the men cut their hair quite short at the back of the head, leaving only a length of six or eight inches in front, which stands upright, like a hedge of wool.  Much pride is felt in their “head of hair” by the women, and even by some of the men; and, unwilling to shorten so ornamental an appendage, they plait it into numerous little tails.  Some coquettishly allow these tails to droop all about their head; others twist them together into a band or bunch, covering the top of the head like a cap.  No wonder that much time is spent in the preparation of so complex a head-gear; but then, on the other hand, when once made up it will last for several days.

Now as to the costume of these interesting semi-savages.  Their articles of clothing are two in number—­the sadik and the simbre.  The former, which by many natives is considered quite sufficient, is a strip of cloth worn round the loins.  The simbre is a piece of white stuff, about four yards long and three broad, which is worn much like a toga.  As it is constantly coming loose, and every minute needing adjustment, it is an exceedingly troublesome though not ungraceful garment, keeping one hand of the wearer almost constantly employed.