Not less charming the shores:  sometimes the hills and mountains pass close to the water, and their steep and rocky sides frown like thunder-smitten ramparts; but generally the eye is delighted by a constant and brightly-coloured panorama of meadows, woods, and valleys, villages, and sequestered farmhouses.  On the summit of a steep declivity a high pole is erected, to which hangs suspended the hat of the unfortunate King Erik.  It is said of him, that having fled from the field of battle, he was here overtaken by one of his soldiers, whose stern reproaches so stung him to the heart that he drove his spurs into his horse’s sides, and clearing the precipice with a bound, sank for ever beneath the waters of the lake.  His hat, which fell from his head as he made the plunge, is preserved as a memorial of a king’s remorse.

* * * * *

On arriving at Stockholm, several stalwart women offer us their services as porters.  They are Dalecarlians, who earn a livelihood by carrying luggage or water, by rowing boats, and by resorting to other occupations generally reserved for the stronger sex.  Honest, industrious, capable of immense fatigue, they never lack employment.  They wear short black petticoats, red bodices, white chemises with long sleeves, short and narrow aprons of two colours, red stockings, and shoes with thick wooden soles.  Around their heads they generally bind a handkerchief, or else wear a very small black cap, which just covers the back of their hair.

Stockholm proves, on examination, to be a handsome city, situated at the junction of the Baltic with the Lake Malar; or, more strictly speaking, on the banks of a short canal which unites the two.  One of its most conspicuous buildings is the stately Ritterholm Church, which Madame Pfeiffer describes as resembling rather a vault and an armoury than a religious edifice.  In the side chapels are enshrined the monuments of dead Swedish kings, whose bones lie in the royal sepulchres below.  On both sides of the nave are ranged the equestrian statues of armed knights; while from every vantage-point hang flags and standards.  The keys of captured towns and fortresses are suspended in the side chapels, and drums and kettle-drums piled upon the floor—­trophies won from the enemies of Sweden in the days when she was a great European power.  The chapels also contain, enclosed in glass-cases, parts of the dress and armour of some of the Swedish monarchs.  We notice, with keen interest, the uniform worn by Charles XII.—­he

   “Who left a name at which the world grew pale,
   To point a moral or adorn a tale”—­

at the time of his death, and the hat penetrated by the fatal shot that slew the fiery warrior.  A remarkable contrast is afforded by the rich dress and plumed hat of Bernadotte, the French soldier of fortune, who founded the present royal house.

The royal palace is a stately structure, and its interior is enriched with the costliest decoration.  The Ritter-house, the Museum of Ancient Art, the Crown-Prince’s palace, the theatre, the bank, the mint, are all deserving of inspection.  In the vicinity a trip may be made to the beautiful and diversified scenery of the Royal Park, or the military school at Karlberg, or to the ancient royal castle of Gripsholm on the Lake of Malar.