Benares is celebrated for its bazaars, in which are exhibited some of the rarest productions of the East; but its principal attraction is its sanctity, and crowds of pilgrims resort to its temples, and cleanse themselves of their sins by bathing in the fast-flowing Ganges.  To die at Benares is regarded as a passport to heaven; and one of the most frequent sights is the burning of a corpse on the river-bank, with ceremonies proportioned to the rank and wealth of the deceased—­the ashes being afterwards committed to the holy waters.  Benares is also famous for its palaces.  Of these the most splendid is that which the rajah inhabits.  It was visited by Madame Pfeiffer, who appears to have gone everywhere and seen everybody at her own sweet will and pleasure, and she was even admitted to the rajah’s presence.

A handsomely-decorated boat, she says, awaited her and her fellow-traveller at the bank of the river.  They crossed; a palanquin was ready to receive them.  Soon they arrived at the stately gateway which forms the entrance to the palace.  The interior proved to be a labyrinth of irregular courts and small unsymmetrical chambers.  In one of the courts a hall, surrounded by plain columns, served as a reception-room.  This was cumbrously loaded with lamps, glass lustres, and European furniture; on the walls hung some wretched pictures, framed and glazed.  Presently the rajah made his appearance, accompanied by his brother, and attended by a long train of courtiers.  The two princes were gorgeously attired; they wore wide trousers, long under and short over garments, all of satin, covered with gold embroidery.  The rajah himself, aged thirty-five, wore short silken cuffs, glowing with gold, and trimmed with diamonds; several large brilliants shone on his fingers, and rich gold embroidery was woven about his shoes.  His brother, a youth of nineteen, wore a white turban, with a costly clasp of diamonds and pearls.  Large pearls hung from his ears; rich massive bracelets clasped his wrists.

The guests having taken their seats, a large silver basin was brought in, with elaborately-wrought narghillies, and they were invited to smoke.  This honour they declined.  The rajah then smoked in solitary dignity—­his pipe being changed as soon as he had taken a few whiffs.

A nautchni, or dance by nautches, was next provided for the visitors’ entertainment.  There were three musicians and two dancers.  The latter were dressed in gay gold-woven muslin robes, with wide silk gold-broidered trousers, reaching to the ground, and quite covering their bare feet.  One of the musicians beat a couple of small drums; the others played on four-stringed instruments not unlike a violin.  They stood close behind the dancers, and their music was wholly innocent of melody or harmony; but to the rhythm, which was strongly accentuated, the dancers moved their arms, hands, and fingers in a very animated manner, and at intervals their feet, so as to ring the numerous tiny bells that cover them.  Their attitudes were not ungraceful.  The performance lasted a quarter of an hour, after which they accompanied the dance with what was intended for singing, but sounded like shrieking.  Meantime, sweetmeats, fruits, and sherbet were handed round.